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Monday, May 06, 2013

Momofuku Seiobo, The Star, Sydney

momofuku pork bun at momofuku seiobo the star sydney

The Momofuku pork bun. There are few chefs in the world as synonymous with a signature dish as David Chang and the Momofuku pork bun. It's not even a dish that was engineered to be famous. The pork bun was an added side dish to the mostly ramen menu at his first restaurant, Momofuku noodle bar. New Yorkers, it soon became apparent, couldn't get enough of the pillowy soft bun and pork belly combination, and the support act started to become the star attraction.

That was in 2004. Chang's expansion since then has been nothing short of breathtaking. Today he has 10 establishments across New York (including five Milk Bars headed by pastry chef, Christina Tosi), four restaurants in Toronto (housed within three floors of a sleek glass building downtown), and a single outpost in the southern hemisphere, Momofuku Seiobo in Sydney headed by Ben Greeno.

2004 was also the year I started writing Grab Your Fork. Yes, this here blog is celebrating nine years online. In a neat little tie-in, I'd be dining with the guy who first inspired me to start blogging, Reid, from Ono Kine Grindz. His Hawaiian-based blog was one of the first I stumbled upon, when food blogs were new and raw and a liberating frontier for frustrated writers everywhere.

kitchen view at momofuku seiobo the star sydney
AC/DC's Angus Young looks over the glassed fridges in the dining room

Getting a reservation at Momofuku Seiobo is part of the ritual. There's been much handwringing written about the reservation system. You need to set up a Momofuku user account and then you're advised to log in exactly ten days before your reservation date at 10am -- when bookings for that date first open up. Reservations are only accepted in groups of two or four, although walk-ins can dine at the five-person bar with a limited menu. Luckily for me, Reid did all the legwork!

It's the first time Reid and I meet in person. Transitioning online friendships to 'real life meetings' is not such a strange occurence these days, but I think that food bloggers have a natural affinity to one another  anyway - all we need is good food and a camera and we're already on the same wavelength! Reid has been on a whirlwind eating tour of Sydney and Melbourne fine dining and it's interesting to note his observations of local trends. "You guys are obsessed with goats cheese and beets," he says.

smoked potato and eel at momofuku seiobo the star sydney
Course 1: Smoked potato and apple 
matched with Mutemuka Shuzo 2012, Kochi, Japan 

We're having the lunch degustation, a tasting menu that usually numbers eight courses for $100, although today we end up with eleven. The dinner tasting menu is $175 for approximately 14 courses.

The dining room is large and expansive. Parties of four are seated at dimly lit tables dotted between the bar and the kitchen, but couples earn seats around the kitchen counter - my favoured spot in any restaurant to enable a view of all the action.

We start with smoked potato and apple, a cloud of piped potato in a scroll of tuile. An orb of apple puree is crisp and sweet, piled with shavings of freeze-dried apple that whet our appetite for more.

DSC_9938-1303
Course 2: Steamed bun with pork belly

It's hard not to suppress some excited hand clapping when the famed pork belly buns appear. Although they now appear on too many hipster menus to count, Chang admits he didn't invent the original concept. One of his favourite Chinese restaurants in New York, the Oriental Garden, used to pair steamed buns with Peking duck. He even asked them how they make their buns (they bought them from a supplier).

The buns look like little open mouths, clasped around a tongue of fatty pork belly slicked with hoisin sauce. Ok, I confess, I stroked the surface of the bun a couple of times, admiring the sheen of the skin, and pressed my finger gently to confirm its billowing fluffiness.

The buns are accompanied by the tiniest bottle of sriracha sauce which we solemnly use to anoint our pork. And then we eat them, immediately torn by the advancing realisation that soon this bliss will finish, because really this pork bun is all that. The bun is wondrously light and airy - not that sodden, heavy, chewy or dry bun you often find elsewhere - and the pork is fatty and unctuous and soft with a whisper of brittle crackling across the top.

pink snapper at momofuku seiobo the star sydney
Course 3: Pink snapper, celery, mustard 
matched with Immich-Batterieberg 'C.A.I.' Riesling 2011, Mosel, Germany

Petals of pink snapper bring our palates back to an appreciation of subtlety. The fish is fresh and satiny, sweet and firm, garnished with young celery leaves and a trail of zingy mustard oil.

chefs plating at momofuku seiobo the star sydney
Chefs plating in the open kitchen 


Watching the chefs at work in the open kitchen is an insight into a restaurant's psyche. There's no hiding behind closed doors. What's immediately apparent at Seiobo is the heightened level of coordination, communication and efficiency at work here. The restaurant is full but the kitchen beavers along quietly, with orders called but not shouted, as the team segues seamlessly from one course to the next. The chefs dip and turn, wordlessly helping one another out. As soon as a course is sent out, the bench is cleaned and wiped down and then readied for the next one. It's hard not to be mesmerised by the performance.

potato roe and parson's nose at momofuku seiobo the star sydney
Course 4: Potato, roe, parson's nose

Call it the influence of my Asian palate, but I love a dish with multiple textures. In our fourth course I'm  distracted by the crunch of potatoes, the bursting pop of glistening roe on the tongue and then I discover the parson's nose. It's fried until all the fat has rendered out. It tastes just like fried chicken, but better.

eel dashi at momofuku seiobo the star sydney
Course 5: Eel dashi, turnip, almond
matched with Uehara Shuzo 'Soma no Tengu' 2012, Shiga, Japan

Our meal seems to follow an ebb and flow of pronounced flavours and then lighter dishes. The jellied eel dashi isn't much to look at, but the intensity if eel combined with an umami dashi stock is arresting, and works harmoniously with a tangle of petals, leaves and radish shavings.

onion and burnt leek at momofuku seiobo the star sydney
Course 6: Onion, burnt leek, yolk
matched with Phillipe Bomard 'Le Blanc de la Rouge' chardonnay 2009, Arbais Pupillin, France

Tasting menus often involve quizzical looks at one another as you try to unpack and identify components on each dish. It's fun if the dish is done well, and can often provide a greater appreciation of ingredients you often take for granted. It tastes a few moments for us to realise the black powder is burnt leek ash, and what I think it is bun is actually an isolated egg yolk, cooked to a sticky richness into which we dip shards of toasted brioche and curls of onion.

chefs in open kitchen at momofuku seiobo the star sydney
Mise en place

I've chosen to go with the matched wines today, a total of six wines and sakes interspersed throughout the meal for an additional $60. Some wines are for two courses, others are for one, but they make a note of telling you this whenever they pour you a new drink. The two sakes are both interesting - especially the cloudy unfiltered Soma no Tengu sake - and they all help lift nuances in each dish. The Eric Bordelet Poire Granit pear cider is exceptional.

Reid elects for the matched juice pairing ($30) which offers a colourful parade of fruit combinations that includes apple, watermelon and more. Matched non-alcoholic beverages are virtually unheard of in Australia but they're not uncommon in the United States. It will be interesting to see if this concept spreads further.

mulloway and black garlic at momofuku seiobo the star sydney
Course 7: Mulloway, cucumber,  black garlic

The glossy black dollop in the middle of the plate turns out to be black garlic, almost caramelised and balsamic in its flavour. It works well with the mulloway - beautifully cooked - offset by micro-thin slices of daikon and cool cucumber.

lamb and eggplant at momofuku seiobo the star sydney
Course 8: Lamb, eggplant, lettuce
matched with Etienne Courtois 'L'icaunais' Gascon, 2008, Sologne, France

Our final savoury dish is the lamb, again cooked to a melting softness. Another black puree appears but it's not more black garlic but eggplant. Pan-fried lettuce is one of my favourite things but here it's much more elegant, with a baby cos lettuce grilled ever so lightly for a hint of char.

goat curd and blackcurrant at momofuku seiobo the star sydney
Course 9: Curd, blackcurrant, mint
matched with Eric Bordelet Poire 'Granit' 2011, Normandy, France

The curd, blackcurrant and mint is more than just a triumph of aesthetics. It's a lesson in restraint with a dollop of pure goats curd sweetened with a puddle of blackcurrant and a trickle of mint - shaped like a leaf to boot.

pear honey cream and muntries at momofuku seiobo the star sydney
Course 10: Pear, honey cream, muntries

Dessert is uniquely Australian, a playground of textures of pear and honey with muntries, also known as emu apples or native cranberries. Crumbs, cream, sweet, tart and crisp, it's a dish that offers multiple variations with every mouthful.

pork fat caramel donut at momofuku seiobo the star sydney
Course 11: Pork fat caramel donut

Does David Chang have an obsession with ending a meal with meat? Previously the petits four was a messy celebration of sticky glazed pork but I much prefer the latest incarnation: donut with pork fat caramel. It's enough to get any porcine fan hot under the collar.

The donut is light and airy but it's the filling that's most beguiling, like a dark dulce de leche with a tantalising meaty sweetness. And then there's the trail of sugar crumbs across the lips. Just as the doctor ordered.

To be honest, I hadn't expected to like Momofuku Seiobo as much as I did, acutely aware of the hype and fanfare surrounding the restaurant. The understated plating and the focus on only a select few different ingredients with each course won me over. There's a brevity to what appears on the plate. Each component is there for a reason - not just for show - and each one is executed with expert deftness and considered respect. It seems to align neatly with my food philosophy.

Thanks everyone for reading Grab Your Fork over the past nine years. There have been more than 6.5 million page views of this website. This is post number 1,682.

I've still got more eating to do.

entrance to momofuku seiobo the star sydney


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Momofuku Seiƍbo on Urbanspoon

Momofuku Seiobo
The Star, Ground floor (opposite Adriano Zumbo)
80 Pyrmont Street, Sydney

No telephone. Contact via online form only or call The Star switchboard on Tel: +61 (02) 9777 9000

Opening hours
Lunch Friday and Saturday $100
Dinner Monday to Saturday $175
Prices correct as at May 2013
Reservations open online 10 days in advance

Bar (five seats - walk-ins only, limited menu)
Lunch Friday and Saturday 12pm-2pm
Dinner Monday to Saturday 6.30pm-10pm


Related Grab Your Fork posts:
Momofuku Seiobo, Pyrmont (Dec16)
Degustation: Cafe Paci, Darlinghurst
Degustation: Sixpenny, Stanmore

58 comments:

  1. You've left such an indelible mark in the blogging world and a lot of us have you to thank for inspiring us to blog too. I'm also grateful to have gotten to know you personally as a friend. Massive congratulations Helen on an amazing 9 years and here's to another 9!

    PS - that meal looks epic and for $100, quite a bargain too :)

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  2. Please never stop blogging! I love your warm, careful descriptions of places and foods and people. Your photography rocks, too. So many days your blog is what brings a smile to my face early in the morning. If I ever make it to your part of the world, I'm going to reread your blog and try to hit EVERY restaurant that still exists...

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  3. Happy Blogiversary Helen! Your blog is an inspiration to us all! I still gotta get my butt to momofuku to try all this awesomeness.

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  4. I think every blogger has their blogging hero, and you are mine. Happy anniversary!

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  5. Nine years, that's epic! Congratulation! You have definitely been an inspiration to me and I'm sure so many others. :)

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  6. Nine years young! You go girl.

    The reservation system may be tedious and a little obnoxious at Seiobo, but the food is pretty special.

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  7. You rock Helen! I'm sure you have been one of the main forces to have inspired many food bloggers currently out there. It's very enlightening to learn of who inspired you to start blogging and cool to see you guys dining and sharing this awesome meal together.

    Congrats on the 9 years. One more year to long service leave! I'd say you should go on an epic eating holiday!

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  8. Congrats on 9 long years! What a feat and what a feast to celebrate with!

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  9. Thanks for the kind words @grabyourfork - a good snapshot at what @bgreeno & team down under serve for lunch right now @momofuku seiobo

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  10. @davidchang @grabyourfork @bgreeno @momofuku good stuff Ben and nice blog Helen!

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  11. WOOOOOT 9 years! Happy blogiversary and here's to many more years to come!

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  12. Wow, 9 years - congratulations! I love your blog & always search it when it comes to places to go!

    Love that you not just stroked the bun but admitted to it, hehehe!

    And HELLO to that donut!

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  13. Happy 9 year blogiversary! what a remarkable milestone :) to many more yummy blog posts to come!

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  14. 9 years! Happy Blogiversary Helen! I think a lot of us look up to you and will always drool over your gastronomic "journey!" Well, grab your fork and continue eating!!! :)

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  15. congrats on such a wonderful achievement! you have inspired me to start my blog so dont ever stop blogging and keep inspiring! i had a few of the dishes u had in your post and the potatoes, roe and parson's nose was awesome!

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  16. Helen, Biggest grats to you. Such an amazing achievement. I only have 5 years of blogging but wow 9 years is amazing. You are a great inspiration to us all!








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  17. Nine years! That's over a third of my life! YOU'RE AMAZING.

    I think that your "more eating" should involve coming to Canada (when I'm back) and comparing the Toronto Momofuku's to this. SEE WHAT I DID THERE WITH THE ASKING YOU TO VISIT ME IN A SNEAKY WAY?

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  18. Congrats on your 9th year. You've been an inspiration to many food bloggers to start up their own blog (myself included), as well inspired many others to expand their food horizons and try out new restaurants and cuisines.

    Here's to many more years of culinary capers :)

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  19. Happy 9 years! You were definitely an inspiration for me to start my own blog too. x

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  20. What a great way to celebrate! Congrats again!

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  21. Happy blog birthday Helen! I first discovered your blog about six years ago when I was living in London and it was a great way to keep in touch with what was happening in Australia. I inevitably started my own blog and five years later it is still going - but that pales in comparison to the number of posts and years you have been going for - I salute you! Congratulations and Momofuku is such a great way to celebrate.

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  22. Happy blogoversary! Sounds like the perfect celebration with those legendary pork buns at Momofuku!

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  23. Happy Blog Bday!!! OMG 9 years...where has the time gone? If it wasn't for your blog, I wouldn't have gotten into food in the first place and would have just gone to the same old places all the time. There's no other way to celebrate your blogiversary than at Momofuku! Keep up the awesome work! :)

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  24. Congratulations Helen! I can't wait for the 10 year celebrations!
    Wonderful pics as always and such eloquent words. I think you've convinced me (and the PigFlyins) to give Momo a try.

    (did you notice the all the famous people posting about your post? You're one of them too!!)

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  25. Happy blogoversary! Where did the time go? Sounds like the perfect way to celebrate! heres to 10 more years :)

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  26. awesome post and great writing. Next on my list

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  27. Happy 9th Anniversary Helen, love your blog! :)

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  28. @grabyourfork @momofuku @davidchang @bgreeno a fitting way to celebrate 9 years! Congratulations Helen!

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  29. To one of the true veterans of Aussie food blogging, happy 9 years to you! ♥

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  30. 9 years! Wahhh. Can’t believe it has been that long! Go girl.

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  31. @grabyourfork @momofuku @davidchang @bgreeno congratulations Helen - awesome achievement!

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  32. Happy 9 years blog anniversary Helen @grabyourfork! Can't wait for many more years of eating to come! =D *raises a fried chicken*

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  33. congratulations on 9 years, Helen. GYF is still my favourite food blog :)

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  34. 9?! That's like a thousand in blog years, I won't call you grand ma till you hit 10 (aka congrats) ;D

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  35. congrats @grabyourfork . still my favourite blog (and i have many interests :P) will be holding up my fork for you tonight.

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  36. hurrah for a wonderful 9 years! what a momentous occasion and many more delicious reads to come :D

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  37. This looks absolutely AMAZING.

    And congratulations on your 9 years! I hope you keep it up for another 9 :)

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  38. Thanks everyone for your lovely comments. Hearing such kind words is always a welcome surprise and goes a long way in spurring me on to keep on blogging! And yes I'll admit that receiving tweets from David Chang and Mark Best put a bounce in my step as well!

    Hi Karen - Naww thanks. I see great things in your future too :)

    Hi 17th stitch - Wow, I'm so impressed you read my site from overseas. And I hope you make it to Sydney soon!

    Hi Ramen Raff - I can see you loving the pork bun for sure :)

    Hi TFP - Aww you make me blush! I will have to make it to Perth one day, promise!

    Hi vintagemacaroon - Thanks so much. I'm sure you've inspired others too!

    Hi john | heneedsfood - I think the trick is to find someone to do all the reservation for you. lol. But yes the meal was great, and worth the effort for sure.

    Hi Phuoc'n Delicious - It was so cool to finally meet the person who inspired me to start blogging. Took me a lot longer than most other people! lol. I like the idea of long service leave but then I'd worry I'd retire permanently. lol

    Hi Tina - Thanks so much. The years have crept up without me knowing!

    Hi chocolatesuze - I expect to be seeing you for many more years to come too ;)

    Hi thesuzechef - Aww thanks. I've been stalking your blog for recipes too. And haha, I stroked that bun good. I bet you will too!

    Hi Jen - Thank you. You're not far behind yourself :)

    Hi Billy - lol I look up to you, but that's because you're over 6'! Haha. I owe my Lightroom skills to your workshop. lol

    Hi milkteaxx - Awww I am sure your blog has inspired others to start their own as well. The parson's nose was crazy good wasn't it? So utterly delicious.

    Hi Julie - Five years is a fantastic achievement too. I think only bloggers know how much effort is involved in each post too :)

    Hi Hannah - lol when you put it that way.... gah freaky! Ooh I'd love to go to Canada and eat at Momofuku. I also want to eat my body weight in poutine. Seriously.

    Hi Simon - Thanks so much Simon. I'm waiting for your next post. Don't let the team down! :)

    Hi Y - Wow, I never knew that. I'm touched. And flattered. And definitely think it's high time you had your own cookbook - your recipes and foodstyling are amazing!

    Hi lateraleating - Thank you, and yes. it's worth treating yourself sometimes!

    Hi Cara - I remember you commenting on my blog and I was flattered that you found my posts relevant even from London! So glad you starting blogging - love your work.

    Hi Sherrri Huang - And even better when the legend proves worthy. Thanks so much :)

    Hi Annie - lol I like to think that food blogs make dining so much more accessible for people, not just by cuisine, but suburbs, price bracket and style as well. Here's to our love of food continuing evermore!

    Hi K - Ooh now that's a significant step! I really enjoyed our meal - I hope you all do too! And haha, what famous people. Oh the one I RT'd with a ridiculous grin on my face? lol

    Hi gastronomous anonymous - Thank you! And ha, who knows that the future will bring!

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  39. was there internet 9 years ago?!!! congratulation on 9 years of eating, photographing and writing.

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  40. What a wonderful post. You are such a talented and gifted blogger/writer. One of the many reasons that has inspired me and many others to blog and stalk you down!!!

    Congratulations on 9 years, all your triumphs and here's to many more to come! xx

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  41. Happy 9 years Helen! That is an amazing milestone, and what an awesome post to celebrate with. I may have already mentioned that your food blog was the first one that I stumbled upon (your Mamak post), and is still one of my favourites (of course!) :)

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  42. Congratulations on 9 fruitful years of blogging. You were the one who inspired me to start blogging, too.
    Momofuku Seiobo is a fitting spot to celebrate. Where will you go for your 10th, I wonder?

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  43. Congrats Helen! 9 years is such an accomplishment and what better way to celebrate than by eating, and then eating some more :)

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  44. Well done! Such an achievement. You should be so proud. I was there a month ago but it already seems like much has changed. The pork fat donut for one looks scrumptious. 100 dollars for 11 courses is certainly cracking value. Here's to many more years!

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  45. Helen,

    It was so nice to finally meet you and to share not one, but two meals with you. Hope my next visit to Sydney isn't so "rushed".

    BTW, I see that Mark Best left a comment right after David Chang did. If he only knew that we visited Marque that night for dinner.

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  46. Helen, you are one of my biggest inspirations of blogging. I truly love every post you made and looking forward for more. Congratz for 9th year of Grab Your Fork!

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  47. Helen, Congratulations on 9 incredible years of blogging. Even before I became a blogger myself, people I know would always refer to your website when deciding where to eat. It is an amazing resource and so entertaining. I feel lucky to have met the person behind the blog and to have found out what a funny, friendly and lovely person you are. Thank you for introducing me to NaruOne and thank you for making me now want to endure the booking process at Momofuku!

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  48. Happy Anniversary Helen!

    You were definitely one of the first blogs I stumbled upon, and have inspired me to start my own.

    Congrats!

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  49. what a beautiful meal! and in low light too. happy nine years, augustus gloop -- pretty much the original and the best.

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  50. Congratulations Helen! What a great way to celebrate your blogger-versary at Momofuku! Another great blog entry with beautiful photos. Always a pleasure to read!

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  51. Wow, 9 years blogging! Congrats Helen, I'm only just starting my blogging journey but look up to those, such as yourself, who have kept me salivating through the PC and paved the foodie way before me.

    And PS. That pork bun deserves its own wow. I'd stroke that puppy too. Looks delish! :P

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  52. Interesting twist on the pork bun. Looks great :)

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  53. What a wonderful way to celebrate 9 years and what a spectacular looking meal! Congrats and here's to more eating ;D

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  54. Hi talkandspoon - Aww thanks, and ha, let's hope!

    Hi pigflyin' - Haha you crack me up. Thank you for all your amazing meals. I am forever indebted!

    Hi Priscilla - Oh you do make me blush! I'm just so glad that the Sydney food blogging scene has flourished so well. PS. The cheque is in the mail :)

    Hi Stephcookie - Thanks so much and haha I didn't know it was the Mamak post you saw! lol.

    Hi OohLookBel - Wow, I'm so touched. Thanks for letting me know. And ooh, I'm not sure, but really, you know, I'm just happy with good company and um, fried chicken. lol

    Hi Jacq - I agree! Wholeheartedly :)

    Hi Neil Chung - The pork fat donut was rather delicious and I thought it was great value all up. Thanks so much :)

    Hi Reid - Thanks for the lovely company. It was an epic day/night indeed!

    Hi Irene - Aww thanks so much!

    Hi Anna - Ha I'm always a little taken aback when people say they know this site and yes, we must catch up for dinner again soon!

    Hi Adelaide Chopping Board - Naw thanks. And reading my blog all the way from Adelaide. I can't wait to return for some more lachsshinken!


    Hi ragingyoghurt - The joy of the counter is you do get magnificent lighting - a little too much to be honest. lol. And ha thanks so much. I miss your blog!

    Hi Chris - Thanks so much, and yes I find it hard to eat now without taking a photo first!

    Hi theblondetourist - Haha, so glad you agree. That bun was stroke-a-licious!

    Hi Sierng - It was great. So simple but well-executed.

    Hi JJ - Thanks for your lovely wishes, and yep, I'm definitely up for a lot more eating!

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  55. 9 years online and getting better e Rey year!

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