Geoduck, sea snail and giant mantis prawn at Rainbow Seafood Restaurant, Lamma Island, Hong Kong

There are no two ways about it. The geoduck clam is the most phallic looking creature on the planet. The neck of this clam extends in a very suggestive fashion from its shell, and because it can live to more than 100 years old, record lengths of up to two metres are not unusual. *Ahem*

Originally hailing from the west coast of the United State and Canada, geoduck (pronounced gooey duck) isn't commonly found in Australia. There's a huge market in Asia, however, where its heralded for its alleged aphrodisiac qualities. It's one of the first things I spotted in the live tanks of a seafood restaurant on Lamma Island. You know what happened next, don't you...


Boats at Sok Kwu Wan on Lamma Island

Hong Kong Island might be over-run with taxis, teetering buildings and crowds everywhere but a 25-minute ferry ride gets you to Lamma Island where space is abundant and the silence is deafening. Lamma Island is the third largest island in Hong Kong measuring about 13.5 square kilometres. They still manage to pack a population of 6,000 but what's more staggering is there are no cars on the island. You'll find a few Hong Kong-style utes for moving large loads but everyone else gets around on foot or by bike. No building can be taller than three storeys.


Dragon detail at a temple in Sok Kwu Wan

Lamma Island is home to a whole series of picturesque walking trails and is hugely popular with both domestic and international visitors. It's also the site of Hong Kong's largest series of fish farms.


Giant garoupa fish 

The eastern village of Sok Kwu Wan is dominated by a main street filled with seafood restaurants that look onto the water. I love that these eateries are typical of South East Asia, no starched white tablecloths and glass windows like in Western countries, but a sea of vinyl tablecloths, plastic chairs and a high-raised roof to protect you from the elements.


Dining with a view at Rainbow Seafood Restaurant


Inspecting the menu

We end up at the biggest restaurant, Rainbow Seafood, where the menu includes a point-and-choose display of live seafood.


Geoduck clams

I really couldn't stop staring at the geoduck clams. These were smaller and cheaper versions.


Sea snails HK$220 (about AU$31)

We start with sea snails, the meat extricated from the shells with provided skewers. There's a lovely bounciness to the sea snails, cooked gently in a spicy wine sauce.


Salt and pepper squilla giant mantis prawn HK$448 (about AU$64)

We're determined to eat all the delicacies we can't easily get in Australia, including the giant mantis prawn that's known locally as squilla. Its size lives up to its name. The sweet and firm flesh stands up well to its salt and pepper preparation, accented with fresh chilli and the crunch of deep fried vermicelli.


Geoduck clams with shallots and garlic HK$880 (about AU$126)

We splurge on the giant American imported geoduck pictured at the top of this post. The trunk of the clam is sliced thinly and cooked with shallots and garlic. There's a slight chewiness to the wafer thin slices that reminds me texturally of a cross between abalone and black fungus.


Razor clams with black bean sauce and vermicelli HK$225 (about AU$32)

Razor clams are another rare treat. In Spain these are usually cooked with garlic and olive oil but in Hong Kong it's all about black bean sauce and vermicelli. The clams are barely cooked so they retain their tenderness. The saltiness of black bean mixed with shallots and vermicelli combine to create a tasty little number.


Sweet and sour pork in pineapple HK$160 (about AU$23)

And how can you resist sweet and sour pork, especially when it's served in a hollowed-out pineapple! There's a real art to a good sweet and sour pork. This one ticks all the boxes. Battered tender pork, chunks of fresh pineapple and capsicum, and a thick sauce that balances sweetness with the perfect amount of acidity.


Boiled sea snails HK$30 each (about AU$4 each)

We had earlier feasted on small sea snails in soup but now we order a round of much larger sea snails, boiled au natural for uncluttered enjoyment.


Sea snail extracted from its shell

Extricating the sea snail from its shell provides a moment of two of marvelling at the wonders of nature. It fits the shell like a glove, right down to its conical tip. I'll admit I can taste more of the guts in this one, but it's still a much appreciated treat.


Stir fried water spinach with belacan HK$60 (about AU$8)

Water spinach or morning glory stir fried with belacan spicy shrimp paste provides our vegetable quota.


Congee with geoduck belly HK$60 (about AU$8)

The belly of the geoduck (the part encased within the clam shell) is used to fortify a humble congee rice porridge. It's simple but nourishing. There's a slightly stronger flavour to the geoduck belly, little bursts of brininess that work so well against the plain backdrop of rice gruel.


Giant cuttlefish HK$150 (about AU$21)

Giant cuttlefish is flash fried until just cooked, the curls of seafood still soft and supple against its bed of mushrooms, green onions and carrots.


Mud crab with roe on sticky rice HK$328 (about AU$46)

We finish with mud crab, specifying a female crab with roe, that's served on a lotus leaf bundle of sticky rice. It's hands-on finger-lickin' deliciousness. The sticky rice is especially good, soaking up the crab juices so each spoonful has a wicked crustacean-flavoured hit.


Rainbow Seafood Restaurant by night from the water

Diners at the restaurant get a free ferry ride back to Hong Kong Island too. It's a spectacular journey by night, chugging through the blackness of night toward the tinseltown lights of the city.


International Commerce Centre (ICC), the tallest building in Hong Kong at 118 storeys and 484 metres tall


Hong Kong city lights


Central Pier


Iconic red sailed junk boat against the city lights

And as if on cue, a junk boat with red sails glided straight past us just as we were about to disembark. A Hong Kong moment I thought only happened in postcards!





Rainbow Seafood Restaurant
1A-1B 23-25 First Street, Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, Hong Kong
Tel: +852 2982 8100

Opening hours:
Open daily 10am-11pm


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