Madeira Grill, Petersham

Doesn't food always taste better on a stick? The Portuguese espetada takes things one step further.

Meat. On a sword.

I'm instantly sold.


Complimentary bread and olives

Madeira Grill in Sydney's Little Portugal, Petersham, is not overly busy on a Friday night, although they are playing host to a large party 16 people. The tables are decked in white tablecloths, but the feel is more of a family restaurant, with a drinks fridge and dessert fridge brightly illuminated in one corner.

A basket of bread rolls is swiftly brought to our table, along with a ramekin of black olives. The olives have a brininess to them, not as oily as Kalamatas. We know not to start on the bread yet - its use will come later.


Sumol Ananas pineapple soda

From the drinks fridge, I select the Sumol Ananas, a pineapple drink manufactured in Portugal that is lightly carbonated and not overly sweet.


Garlic prawns $15.90

We share an entree of garlic prawns, the terracotta pot sizzling with oil, and wafting aromatic fumes of caramelised garlic.



The prawns themselves are a tad flavourless, but as always, it's the oil at the bottom I'm more interested in. We finally allow ourselves to tear in the bread rolls, using the bread to mop up the sweet oil, chunks of garlic and bright red flecks of chilli.


Vongole in a mustard and lemon sauce $15.90

An entree serving of vongole is enormous, and we have to play table chess to make room.



There's a lovely sense of hands-on fun as we tuck into the baby clams, scraping the flesh from the shell with out teeth, and drinking up the juices, tangy with lemon and only faint with mustard. The clinking of shells as we scrabble for clams always makes me smile. The flesh is tender and sweet.


Grilled codfish in tomato and onions with fried potatoes $22.90

Speedy orders the bacalhau for mains, the salted codfish covered in a thick sauce of tomato and onion.



The firm texture and salty resonance of the balcahau is a fitting complement to the sweet tomato sauce. A rubble of fried potato chunks aren't overly crunchy, more like soft cooked potatoes with a thin golden skin.


Charcoal veal skewer $24.50
served with polenta, salad and garlic bread
Espetada a Moda da Madeira

"Are you sure the espeteda is for one person?" Veruca Salt had asked me, just before I ordered.

"Oh yes yes, I reassured her. Look at the price, it must be for one person."

If our table was packed before, it's chaotic now. A banquet of side dishes seems to arrive: a bowl of salad, a plate of polenta, a basket of garlic bread, and then the main attraction, a towering meat-skewered sword that hangs on a specially-designed stand.


Salad, garlic bread and polenta


Polenta

Realistically, this probably could feed two people. I barely touch the garlic bread or the polenta (which tastes a little gluey even though it's been pan-fried) although the salad provides some much needed refreshment.



Resting on a cleverly-designed ledge, the espetada swings gently at the table. The fat chunks of beef have been rubbed with garlic and rock salt and then grilled until cooked. Beneath the sword is a slice of white bread, positioned to catch the drips of meat juice for those who wish to eat it as a final treat.




Removing the meat from the sword

Removing the meat from the sword is trickier than we think. I'm tempted to grip the meat too tightly when in fact it's best to gently guide the beef downward using the tongs provided.


Espetada beef

The beef is a little chewy in parts, although there's plenty of flavour, and some pieces are tenderer than others.


Steak served with prosiutto, egg and round chips $20.90
Bife a Portuguesa

Bellboy and Veruca Salt both order the Portuguese-style steak, a tried-and-true favourite. I've always been a little astounded by the purity of protein and carbohydrates on one plate - steak and chips and why not have some ham and, short on protein? Here have an egg as well.

The version here makes me see the light. The steak, cooked to a medium-rare as requested, is juicy and tender, however all the glory belongs to the round chips. Hand cut potatoes are fried to a mouthwatering golden hue, making a loud satisfying crunch with every bite. These are real kettle chips, the chips sliced thickly enough to still give resistance, and provide plenty of potato flavour.

Portuguese-style steak? Ahh... now I understand.




View Larger Map



Madeira Grill
82-86 New Canterbury Rd, Petersham, Sydney
Tel: +61 (02) 9560 2898

Opening hours:
Monday to Tuesday 8am-10pm
Thursday to Sunday 8am-10pm
Closed on Wednesdays


Related GrabYourFork posts:
Portuguese - Costa Do Sol (Petersham)
Portuguese - Sydney Portugal Community Club (Marrickville)

Petersham - Costa Do Sol (Portuguese)
Petersham - La Parrillada (Peruvian)
Petersham - Perama (Greek, modern)
Petersham - Sweet Belem (Portuguese bakery)
Stanmore - La Peniche (French cooking school restaurant)