Stomachs Eleven: Slow cooked chuck, tri-tip and beef short rib meats

Meat. I don't know that I could ever give up eating protein, but I do think it's imperative to eat meat responsibly. This includes eating all the secondary cuts and offal - not just the prime pieces. And really, why would you want to miss out on the parts of the animal that are richer in flavour, unique in texture and so much cheaper too?

It's a philosophy shared by home cook extraordinaire Pig Flyin' who recently hosted our Stomachs Eleven group for a feast of secondary cuts. It was a chance for him to test out his homemade sous vide machine, and to celebrate his newly purchased Kamado Joe barbecue.


Garden tour: purple shiso, Venus fly traps and pitcher plants

Pig Flyin' is not just a great cook; he's also a keen gardener. His backyard is a treasure trove of edible delights, and as he led me on an impromptu tour, it was hard not to hear the parental pride as he clucked over his flourishing sage, the bed of purple shiso and patch of lemon verbena.


Olive herb

Olive herb was a new addition to the garden. Its leaves taste just like pickled olives!


Garden zucchini

We had to crouch down to catch a glimpse of the blossoming zucchini. So exciting to see them bursting forth.


Deep frying kale 

Back in the kitchen, Pig Flyin' began deep frying kale for our pre-dinner snack. We discussed baking kale versus deep frying, but Pig Flyin' simply laughed as said "I'm a rebel. Say no to baking!"


Deep fried kale with salt and vinegar 

There's a hiss and crackle as the kale hits the hot oil, bunching up on itself into a vibrant green coral. We had these sprinkled with salt and vinegar, the delicate crunch cut through neatly by the splash of acid.


Battered onion rings with paprika

And then onion rings hit the table, massive loops of sweet salad onion dipped in batter and then deep fried until golden. A dusting of paprika added smokiness.


Sweet salad onion rings with sumac

The giant salad onions are sweet and mild enough to eat on their own. They're crisp and light, almost like an onion crossed with a nashi pear, and we snacked on then with extra virgin olive oil and a smattering of sumac.


Chilled tomato soup

Pig Flyin' had bought a huge batch of home grown tomatoes from an Italian gardener. Some of these were turned into a chilled tomato soup, a dish that the G-man immediately remembered as being featured in our Christmas dinner in 2008.


Homemade gnocchi in fresh tomato sauce

And then homemade gnocchi - the softest, fluffiest pillows of potato you could ever imagine. They collapse on the tongue with a sigh (or maybe that was me!), enrobed in a homemade tomato sauce that is intensely flavoured. Over 11 kilograms of tomatoes were placed into a pot and then slow cooked and reduced for hours. Sardinian pecorino was mixed with reggiano in the grater. Pig Flyin' also recommends using a good spicy olive oil to finish.

As for those that are interested, the gnocchi recipe he used is here.


Kamado Joe barbecue

The Kamado Joe barbecue looks more like a space ship on the back porch, but Pig Flyin' is particularly excited over its temperature range, temperature control (you can adjust the air flow to manipulate the temperature) and its ability to smoke foods. They're not cheap - retailing at around AU$1,000 - but if anyone is going to get value out of a barbecue, it's Pig Flyin'.


Saikyo miso marinated toothfish wrapped in cedar on the barbecue

Inside the barbecue are parcels of toothfish, marinated in saikyo miso and then wrapped in cedar leaves tied up with string. Yes, these are a few of my favourite things :)


Setting the cedar on fire for extra smokiness

The toothfish has been marinated in saikyo miso for 24 hours. Saikyo miso is difficult to source in Sydney - so much so that Pig Flyin' buys his direct from Japan. He says that shiomiso could be used in a pinch but it will require the addition of lots of sugar and is not quite the same. Saikyo miso gets its natural sweetness for a special malting process that happens during fermentation.

At the table, the cedar is set alight so the wood burns and imparts extra smokiness into the fish. Pig Flyin' says the cedar shouldn't be burned too much - just a little on the edges for a delicate smokiness.


Saikyo miso marinated toothfish in cedar roasted over charcoal

The toothfish is succulent and moist, flaking easily beneath the sheath of caramelised marinade. The saikyo miso is insanely good - sweet and salty and smoky from the barbecue.

Pig Flyin's cooking notes for saikyo miso marinated toothfish follow:


Saikyo miso marinated toothfish

1. Marinate the toothfish (any white oily flaky fish will also do) in saikyo miso for one day. The saikyo miso marinade is diluted with mirin sweet cooking sake.
2. Soak the cedar in water for a few hours.
3. Wrap the fish in the cedar and bake in indirect heat at around 200C in a barbecue or oven until cooked.
4. Light the cedar at the table but don't burn it too much - just at the edges for a hint of smokiness.
5. Toothfish is available from Wellstone. They have a retail outlet at Willoughby next to Harris Farm. Toothfish is also known as Chilean sea bass in the USA.

And if anyone has tips on where to get saikyo miso in Sydney, let us know!

The homemade sous vide machine

In the living room is a homemade sous vide machine that Mr and Mrs Pig Flyin' have constructed (Mrs Pig Flyin' is a scientist by day). For the past couple of days, it's been whirring and humming as warm water has been circulated around cryovacced bags of meat.


Chuck steak cooked at 60C for 24 hours then finished on the bbq

The chuck steak, Pig Flyin' explains, has been slow-cooked at 60C for 24 hours. It's seared on the barbecue and then sliced at the table.


24-hour sous vide chuck steak with salsa verde

The chuck steak is incredible, rich and flavoursome with hidden pockets of melting fat. A salsa verde adds pep with parsley, basil, garlic and capers.


Charcoal caramelised broccolini

Broccolini has been blanched quickly and then cooked on the grill until slightly charred.


Smashed tomatoes and cucumber salad

More tomatoes arrive in a colourful salad, with cherry tomatoes smashed until their sweet juices run out, tossed with chunks of cucumber and sprigs of parsley.



Zucchini, radish, fennel and pea salad


A summery salad of raw shaved zucchini and radish is tossed with peas and fennel and mixed through with minted yoghurt.


Tri-tip steak cooked at 60C for 5 hours then finished on the bbq

The tri-tip is a triangular muscle found at the bottom of the sirloin where it meets the rump. It's high in flavour but lower in fat. Pig Flyin' has cooked this fillet at 60C for 5 hours.


Beef short rib cooked at 60C for 72 hours then finished on the bbq

The beef short rib has enjoyed a three-day hot tub experience, cooked at 60C for 72 hours. Both cuts of meat are finished on the barbecue, seared until the skin has blackened while the inside remains juicy.


Slow cooked beef tri-tip and short rib with salsa verde and smoky tomato salsa

The tri-tip and short rib are sliced and then dressed with salsa verde or lashings of a homemade smoky tomato salsa.


Mmm... meat

It's an insane meat fest. My favourite is actually the chuck steak, remarkably tender and tasty with satisfying bursts of fat.


American graham crackers

What's a barbecue but for roasting marshmallows? Dessert rolls on with the American campfire classsic, S'mores.


S'mores - roasted marshmallow and melted chocolate sandwiched between two graham crackers

We have a precious box of graham crackers, brought back from the USA, which are used to sandwich toasted marshmallows and squares of chocolate. The heat of the marshmallow is supposed to melt the square of chocolate, creating a squidgy sticky chocolatey treat.



Chargrilled nectarines and figs with creme fraiche

The barbecue is also used to char grill summer fruits: nectarines and figs roasted and served with dollops of creme fraiche and torn mint.



Grandma's frozen cheesecake

A frozen cheesecake is hauled out from the freezer and Pig Flyin' says this is his Grandma's creation, and the first dish he ever learned to make. It's a simple concoction but it's my favourite dessert of the night.


Frozen cheesecake with fruit jewels

Made with just cream cheese and condensed milk, the frozen mixture tastes just like cheesecake. Pieces of chopped tinned fruit look like glittering jewels when the log is sliced. A biscuit crumb top becomes the base when turned out of the tin. It was so good I demanded the recipe and made it at home the very next day.


Pig Flyin's Grandma's frozen cheesecake

Beat 250g of softened cream cheese until fluffy
Add one can of sweetened condensed milk and beat until well incorporated
Add two 425g cans of chopped tinned fruit (peaches, pears and pineapples all work well)
Mix well then pour into a loaf tin lined with plastic film
Add a top layer of biscuit crumbs mixed with melted butter
Freeze until firm
Turn out and slice to serve (you may need to soften for 30min at room temperature for easier slicing.

Thanks Mr and Mrs Pig Flyin'. And Grandma too!


Related Grab Your Fork posts:
Stomachs Eleven: Bone marrow and pigs trotters
Stomachs Eleven: Homemade roast suckling pig
Stomachs Eleven: Pigs head and nose-to-tail eating
Stomachs Eleven: Tuna belly banquet

Fish Place, Surry Hills

Forget the supplements. Fish Place is the tastiest way to load up on your omega-3s. Located just a few doors up from El Loco, the corner building looks more like a giant artwork, splashed with a repetition of sardine cans promising "smoked fish".

Adam de Launay, last seen at The Smokehouse, is behind this latest venture. His dad, Stephen, is in charge of the smoker, churning out freshly smoked salmon and ocean trout every day. Stephen is a master smoker, with forty years of experience under his belt.


Fish Place counter seating and blackboard menu

Fish Place offers a casual set-up, with patrons ordering and paying at the counter. The menu is short and sweet. Needless to say, don't expect anything other than seafood.


Fish Place display counter with salad selection

Service is brisk and efficient. Smoked salmon bagels are made to order, with the salmon flaked fresh from the whole side of fillet at the counter.


Smoked salmon, salads and fish pies

Orders seem to be an equal ratio of eat-in and takeaway. If you're eating in, choose from the row of stools along the window ledge inside or outdoor tables on the footpath, otherwise head out the back to the courtyard. It's a hidden oasis of calm and eclectic furnishing, from plants grown in old chests and toolboxes to a table made from a converted ironing board.


Outdoor courtyard with plants grown in old chests and toolboxes


Ironing board table, fishy window, rustic seating and vintage reading material 


Hot smoked ocean trout with salad $12.50

On our first visit we try the hot smoked ocean trout, a succulent slab of fish that isn't overly smoky but moist and sweet.


Hot smoked salmon with tomato avocado salad $12.50

The hot smoked salmon on our second visit seems to have had the smoke factor turned up to ten. It's intensely smoky with a heady aroma and a lingering finish on the palate.  We can't get enough of the stuff. The flesh is as soft as a pillow.


Smoked salmon bagel with cream cheese, capers and Spanish onion $8.50

The smoked salmon bagel comes in a cardboard burger box, a poppyseed bagel crammed with chunks of smoked salmon, red onion slivers, salty pops of capers and a generous smear of cream cheese.


Today's fish, battered with half chips / half pea mash $12.50

Fish and chips are a winner too. Today's fish is sea bream, and it's a huge fillet coated in a light and crispy batter. The chips are crunchy and the pea mash is buttery enough to keep your tastebuds happy.

Getting your vitamins never felt so good.




View Larger Map


Fish Place
70 Foveaux Street, Surry Hills, Sydney
Tel: +61 (02) 8958 0159

Opening hours:
Monday to Friday 10am-8.30pm


Related Grab Your Fork posts:
Surry Hills - El Loco
Surry Hills - Mohr Fish

Galileo Restaurant at The Langham, Sydney

The Observatory Hotel is no more, replaced by The Langham, Sydney. Apart from the new sign out the front, things look much the same inside, with The Globe Bar and the Galileo Restaurant remaining unchanged in name.

Head Chef Anthony Craven's menu at Galileo is described as modern Australian although there are distinct French influences throughout. Patrons can choose to order from the a la carte menu (mains $37-$51) or partake in the 8-course degustation for $110. A vegetarian degustation - including onsen egg and cauliflower steak - is available for $95.


Galileo dining room

It's quiet and subdued in the dining room, dark and stately with wood panelling, chandeliers and heavy antique furniture. The crowd is mostly couples or small groups of friends, with a large contingent of Japanese businessmen occupying one table.


Amuse bouche: smoked oyster on pickled cabbage

We've opted for the degustation tonight and proceedings commence quickly with the amuse bouche. The smoked oyster is perhaps a touch too chilled to fully appreciate its flavour, served on a bed of pickled cabbage that is reminiscent of sauerkraut.


Balmain bug and ocean trout with cucumber puree and duck prosciutto 

Course number two is a pretty arrangement of colours and textures, from the plump pillow of buttery ocean trout to the sweet curl of Balmain bug and paper thin slices of beetroot. I'm intrigued most by the duck prosciutto but it's presented as a crumbled salty soil rather than a fatty sheath.


Seared yellow fin tuna with tamarillo chutney, crispy shallot and lemon oil jus

A painted orb of lemon oil jus makes our next dish look just like a fried egg, served on an impressively large plate with a recessed centre. The yellow fin tuna is served two ways - as a clean tuna tartare and seared with crispy shallots as a garnish. A single brussel sprout leaf is a pretty cup for a dark sticky sauce, but it's hard to work out how this dish is meant to be eaten. I make a mistake by eating the three mounds separately, hitting the intense tamarillo chutney last.


Barramundi with mussel, butter lettuce veloute and croutons

Barramundi is perfectly cooked, if a little over-seasoned, with the flesh flaking apart with the touch of a fork. The butter lettuce veloute is rich and silky.


Intermediaire: Strawberry granita

Shot glasses of strawberry granita offer a welcome palate cleanser before the main course. The granita is balanced in sweetness with fine ice crystals.


Tajima beef tenderloin with heirloom tomato, piquillo pepper, olive tapenade and natural jus

Tajima is a specific bloodline of Japanese wagyu, heavy in marbling. The tenderloin offers a rewarding mouthful of tender juicy beef, offset by heirloom tomato, sweet piquillo pepper, asparagus, a whole roasted garlic clove and dots of salty olive tapenade.


Optional cheese plate $10 supplement

We end up sharing the optional cheese plate, trio of cheeses that includes a Woodside brie, roquefort and what's described as 'a semi-hard cheese from the Netherlands'. It comes with a wedge of quince paste, red grapes, dried muscatels, pistachios and an assortment of lavosh and bread sticks.


Strawberry soup with basil sorbet and vanilla panna cotta 

There's an element of theatre with the strawberry soup, which is poured at the table by our waiter. It washes over a bowl of berries, and islands of basil sorbet and vanilla panna cotta. The strawberry soup is sweet and refreshing. A shard of meringue sprinkled with strawberry dust escapes the tide to maintain its crispness.


Pain perdu with rhubarb compote and Pedro Ximenez ice cream

Our final dessert is the pain perdu, an eggy French toast made with brioche that is equal parts crunch and squidginess. Pedro Ximenez ice cream has a underlying alcoholic hit and dollops of rhubarb compote provide a balance of acidity.


Complimentary petit fours birthday platter

We're celebrating the Man in Black's birthday tonight and we're surprised with a complimentary petit fours platter, assembled by the kitchen when they'd gotten wind of the occasion. It's a thoughtful gesture, and a sweet finish to the evening.




View Larger Map


Galileo Restaurant at The Langham, Sydney
89-113 Kent Street, Sydney
Tel: +61 (02) 9256 2222

Opening hours:
Breakfast daily 6.30am-10.30am
Dinner Tuesday to Saturday 6.30pm-10pm