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Sunday, July 28, 2013

Mexican food in Los Angeles: Loteria Grill, Tamales Liliana's and El Flamin Taco Truck

nopalitos cactus salad at loteria grill, la farmers market, los angeles

Cactus! Pozole! Tamales! We couldn't visit Los Angeles without getting into our fair share of Mexican. It's estimated that Hispanics and Latinos make up 48% of the population in Los Angeles County, and of that group 80% are of Mexican origin.

Los Angeles is said to be the second largest Mexican city in the world. We couldn't wait to dig in!

loteria grill, la farmers market, los angeles
Loteria Grill

First up: Lotería Grill at the LA Farmers Market. Owner Jimmy Shaw opened this stall in 2002 and has since expanded to five locations around Los Angeles. Shaw grew up in Mexico and although he isn't Mexican by blood, he says "my heart is very Mexican".

The menu is extensive and dizzying. Tacos start at US$3 each for vegetarian options of which there are four, including cactus salad; zucchini and roasted corn succotash; mushrooms with epazote (a Mexican herb); and potatoes with roasted poblano peppers.

You can choose from appetizers, soups, salads, tacos, burritos, tostadas, sopes, enchiladas and more. We're all a bit stunned for choice and take several minutes to decide.

mole poblano con pollo sope at loteria grill, la farmers market, los angeles
Mole poblano con pollo sope US$5.25

I'm down with the chicken mole poblano for breakfast, served on a sope. Sope is made from masa (ground maize) that is flattened into a circle and then pinched upwards on the sides into a tart-like shape. Sope are panfried so the edges are slightly crisp but its primarily soft and tender, making a tasty base for the tender shreds of spiced chicken, shredded lettuce and queso fresco fresh cheese.

nopalitos cactus salad at loteria grill, la farmers market, los angeles
Nopalitos US$7.50

And how could I turn down the chance to have a cactus salad? Nopalitos cactus salad is made using the paddle cactus, although Americans commonly call this a prickly pear. It's not particularly strong in flavour, a hybrid of choko mixed with an overcooked green bean plus the slightly stickiness of okra.

There's a jumble of paddle cactus, fresh tomatoes, lettuce, black bean puree, coriander and salsa verde cruda (tomatillos and serrano chillies) topped with a crumbled queso fresco fresh cheese. The salad is light and refreshing, and the taco has substance but is tender and soft too.

We later chow down on an cinnamon roll from Bob's Doughnuts  and when we walk past again at 11am the queue is a dozen deep.

Tamales Liliana's Restaurante

tamales lilianas restaurante mexican in east los angeles

A couple of days later we hit up Tamales Liliana's for, you guessed it, tamales. It's a short drive to east LA and Liliana's appears out of nowhere, set back from the curb with its own on-site carpark. The menu is completely in Spanish with a few English translations, although judging by the predominantly Hispanic crowd, this doesn't really present a problem.

dining room at tamales lilianas restaurante mexican in east los angeles
Tamales Liliana's dining room

The dining room is clean but basic, and there are plenty of families here having dinner tonight. Television screens in each corner are tuned into the NBA finals.

tortilla chips at tamales lilianas restaurante mexican in east los angeles
Tortilla chips

A basket of tortilla chips arrives at the same time as our menus. They're hard to resist, amplified with the flavour of corn and addictively crunchy.

green and red  chilli sauces at tamales lilianas restaurante mexican in east los angeles
Green and red chilli sauces

The tortilla chips are the ideal vessels for the accompanying pots of chilli sauce. We debate about which one is hotter, but I'm convinced the green is spicier than the red.

There are more than 120 different variations on the menu which is probably how our order for three ends up looking like this:

mexican feast at tamales lilianas restaurante mexican in east los angeles
Dinner for three

tostada with prawn ceviche at tamales lilianas restaurante mexican in east los angeles
Tostadas ceviche de camaron US$3.75 

First up is the prawn ceviche, a pile of prawns cooked gently with lime juice, and livened with tomato, coriander and two fat slabs of avocado on a crunchy tostada shell.

grilled beef taco at tamales lilianas restaurante mexican in east los angeles
Tacos carne asada US$1.50 each

Tacos with carne asada, or grilled steak, are generously piled with cubes of flash seared beef, dressed with coriander and onion and a side of thinly sliced radish.

pozole at tamales lilianas restaurante mexican in east los angeles
Pozole US$7

I'd been keen to try the pozole, a dish not commonly found in Australia. It's a huge bowl of comforting soup filled with fat rehydrated hominy beans that look like giant flattened corn kernels. Hominy has a mealy texture and it's not particularly sweet like the sweetcorn we know.

Digging down into the homestyle soup brings forth chunks of pork and chicken with shredded cabbage and radish providing crunch. A side dish of condiments allows you to add your own rationing of onion, coriander and as much fresh lime juice as you please.

tostadas and soft tacos at tamales lilianas restaurante mexican in east los angeles
Tostadas and soft tacos

There's no shortage of carbs either as they bring out baskets of both tostadas and soft tortilla wraps.

chicharron in salsa verde at tamales lilianas restaurante mexican in east los angeles
Chicharron en salsa verde con arroz y frijoles US$11.75

Suze orders the chicharron en salsa verde expecting a dinner of pork crackling, but who knew that Mexicans eat their pork skin crunchy and soggy too? The strips of pork crackling have been cooked into a green salsa until resolutely soft and mushy, still tasting of pork fat but somewhat bewildering without their signature crunch.

grilled fish at tamales lilianas restaurante mexican in east los angeles
Filete al gusto al ajillo US$12.50

Lex wants to sample the fish and orders his cooked with guajillo chilli, lending a smoky sweetness to the fillet of fish.

tamales at tamales lilianas restaurante mexican in east los angeles
Tamales chile rojo con carne and tamales rajas con queso US$1.50 each

I'm all over the tamales. They're only US$1.50 each, arriving in an extra layer of greaseproof wrapped around the corn husk.

tamales at tamales lilianas restaurante mexican in east los angeles

I go on the waiter's recommendations and order their two most popular tamales. The chile rojo con carne holds soft shreds of pork in a spicy red chilli sauce. Rajas con queso is a hidden surprise of poblano chile mixed with white cheese. The masa itself is drier than I'd expected, but eaten together with the filling, it all evens out okay.

horchata and tamarindo at tamales lilianas restaurante mexican in east los angeles
Horchata and tamarindo US$3.25 each

And for drinks, I'm into the horchata almond milk that's spiced with cinnamon, while Suze goes for the tamarindo that masterfully straddles sour and sweet.

flan at tamales lilianas restaurante mexican in east los angeles
Rico flan napolitano estilo casero US$3.50

We find room for dessert too. The wedge of flan is deliciously rich and eggy, and what else to wash it down with than a giant cup of champurrado thick Mexican hot chocolate.

Total bill for three: US$54.90 plus tips!

champurrado mexican hot chocolate at tamales lilianas restaurante mexican in east los angeles
Champurrado US$3.20

El Flamin Taco Truck

el flamin taco truck in little korea, los angeles
Crowds at the El Flamin Taco truck

We'd been driving to The Donut Man when I noticed a massive queue in a parking lot out of the corner of my eye. Suze noticed it too and suddenly hollered at Lex "Stop! Stop the car! It's a food truck!" Lex made no hesitation in doing so and we pulled over immediately. Have I told you how much I loved travelling with these guys?

There are four El Flamin Taco food trucks around Los Angeles, each pulling into their regular locations at 7pm. We'd stumbled upon the one in Korea Town, but they also have trucks in Hollywood, Silver Lake and Echo Park.

It's a huge parking lot, the kind without markings and uneven gravel, but that just makes the neon flashing food truck parked at one end all the more exciting. There's a huge crowd of people gathered, and several random folding chairs make for "customer seating".

al pastor spit roast pork at el flamin taco truck in little korea, los angeles
Al pastor

Off to the side is a giant vertical spit of pork or al pastor, slowly rotating before a gas flame. There's fire and smoke and gleaming knife work as slices of pork are shaved off at regular intervals. The little hat of pineapple on top of the spit is deliberate. Pineapple juice contains the enzyme, bromelain, which drips down slowly and tenderises the meat.

al pastor taco at el flamin taco truck in little korea, los angeles
Tacos al pastor $US1.35

With the smell of smoky pork wafting in the air, we immediately order the tacos al pastor. There's a healthy portion of pork and even a slice of pineapple. The corn tortilla is a marvel in itself, more like a thin pancake with a far superior texture and flavour to the store-bought kind.

salad and salsa bar at el flamin taco truck in little korea, los angeles
Self-serve salad and salsa bar

We'd been marvelling at the self-serve salad and salsa bar too. It holds a mind-boggling array of fixings ready for people to customise their own orders. I love that they supply everything for takeaway too, with miniature plastic bags and napkins for diners on the go.

tacos al pastor spit roasted pork at el flamin taco truck in little korea, los angeles
Tacos al pastor with salsa fixings

Salad makes everything pretty! It's hard not to go overboard with fixings, but the salsas, radish, onion and coriander add pep and zing.

tripe taco at el flamin taco truck in little korea, los angeles
Tacos de tripa $US1.35

The tacos de tripa was my pick, and it's amazing. A huddle of deep fried small intestines is salty and crunchy and fatty and good.

quesadilla with chicharron pork crackling at el flamin taco truck in little korea, los angeles
Quesadilla with chicharron

Suze picked the - yep, you guessed it - chicharron. We're rewarded with genuine crunch this time, housed in a quesadilla that's far removed from the flattened cardboard-like versions I've seen in Sydney.

The freshly made quesadilla is the real reason, slightly puffy and crisp at the edges and wrapped around a filling of crackling nuggets and molten cheese. It's made at a separate quesadilla cart, the dough flattened to order using a traditional wooden press and then deep-fried until fluffy.

Draped across the top is a mountain of fresh lettuce and queso fresco, soft and crumbly, contrasting with the crunch of pork crackling underneath.

chicharron pork crackling quesadilla at el flamin taco truck in little korea, los angeles
Chicharron pork crackling

You know you want it.

View Larger Map
El Flamin Taco on Urbanspoon

El Flamin Taco (Korea Town)
505 S Vermont Avenue, Los Angeles, California, USA
Tel: +1 (213) 718 1790

Opening hours:
Tuesday to Thursday 7pm - 3am
Friday to Sunday 7pm - 4am
Closed on Mondays

Also located at:
Hollywood - 1720 Vine Street, Los Angeles, California, USA
Silver Lake - 3013 Los Feliz Blvd, Los Angeles, California, USA
Echo Park - 2028 Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles, California, USA
Opening times are the same as Korea Town

tamales lilianas restaurante mexican in east los angeles

View Larger Map
Tamales Lilianas on Urbanspoon

Tamales Liliana's Restaurante
4929 East Cesar Chavez Avenue, Los Angeles, California, USA
Tel: +1 (323) 780 0989

Opening hours:
Monday to Sunday 7am - 9.30pm

loteria grill, la farmers market, los angeles

View Larger Map
Loteria Grill on Urbanspoon

Lotería Grill
LA Farmers Market
6333 West 3rd Street, Los Angeles, California, USA
Tel: +1 (323) 930 2211

Opening hours:
Monday to Thursday 9am - 8pm
Friday to Saturday 9am - 9pm
Sunday 9am - 8pm

Also located at:
Hollywood - 6627 Hollywood Blvd, Los Angeles, California, USA
Studio City - 12050 Ventura Blvd, Studio City, Los Angeles, California, USA
Santa Monica - 1251 3rd Street Promenade, Santa Monica, Los Angeles, California, USA
Westlake Village - 180 Promenade Way, #15 Thousand Oaks, Los Angeles, California, USA
Opening times vary

>> Read the next USA 2013 post: 
In-N-Out, Roscoe's Fried Chicken & Waffles, Kogi food truck and Pink's Hot Dogs

<< Read the first USA 2013 post: 
Cronuts at Dominique Ansel Bakery, NYC

Related Grab Your Fork posts: 

USA 2013
Austin - BBQ tour - Franklin, Ruby's, Green Mesquite, Salt Lick & La Barbecue
Austin - Gourdough's bacon donut, Hoover's, Whole Foods and Biscuits + Groovy
Chicago - Deep pan pizza, Al's #1 Italian beef & Cheesecake Factory
Kansas City - BBQ: Gates, Oklahoma Joes & Arthur Bryant's

LA - Animal Restaurant
LA - Boiling Crab
LA - Bouchon Bistro and Bouchon Bakery
LA - Donut tour of LA's best: Randy's Donuts, Bob's Doughnuts & The Donut Man
LA - In-N-Out, Roscoe's Fried Chicken & Waffles, Kogi food truck & Pink's Hot Dogs
LA - Mexican: Loteria Grill, Tamales Liliana's & El Flamin Taco
New Orleans - Willy Mae's fried chicken, Felix's Oyster Bar & beignet

NYC - Cronuts at Dominique Ansel Bakery
NYC - Doughnut Plant, Carlo's Bakery, Baohaus, Lobster Joint & Clinton St Bakery
NYC - Jewish food tour: Katz's Deli, Russ & Daughters, knish and bagels
NYC - Momofuku Noodle Bar fried chicken, Ssam Bar & Milk Bar
NYC - Motorino brussels sprout pizza, Best Pizza and Big Gay Ice Cream
NYC - Shake Shack, Tom Colicchio's Craftbar and Union Square Greenmarket
34 comments - Add some comment love

posted by Helen (Grab Your Fork) on 7/28/2013 04:17:00 am


  • At 7/28/2013 8:16 am, Blogger Jarhead said…

    So much variety when it comes to Mexican food in LA! The cactus salad sounds intriguing, and the quesadilla with chicarron sounds like the perfect quesadilla. Is there anything that doesn't taste better with pork crackling on top??? :)

  • At 7/28/2013 10:31 am, Anonymous Ally @Edibles&Travels said…

    Yum it all looks so good! And I completely agree with Jarhead ... everything tastes better with pork crackling on top!

  • At 7/28/2013 12:17 pm, Anonymous angela@mykikicake said…

    Mexican food as it should be..Why can't Sydney allow people to set up food trucks in carparks near the gas station? :) Great post!

  • At 7/28/2013 1:35 pm, Blogger Vivian - vxdollface said…

    oh yes i do want it!! haha damn those food trucks sound amazing, surprised they even have a salad salsa bar!

  • At 7/28/2013 9:21 pm, Anonymous My Kitchen Stories. said…

    How totally fantastic. What an amazing trip you've had. I would love to go to these places

  • At 7/28/2013 9:41 pm, Anonymous chocolatesuze said…

    you know you want it? I KNOW I WANT IT ALLLLLLL!

  • At 7/28/2013 9:47 pm, Blogger Annie said…

    this post brings me back memories of my LA trip years ago. those tamales look so delicious. hope to see more of them pop up around sydney now that there's heaps of Mexican restaurants.

  • At 7/29/2013 8:21 am, Blogger Tina @ bitemeshowme said…

    I love how all the dishes are named authentically - i dont think i knew how to pronounce any of them correctly. Mexican food tastes different in La, good different, compared to what is served here. There was a place called "taconama" where all tacos were $1. so ridiculous.

  • At 7/29/2013 9:07 am, Anonymous thesuzchef said…

    I fell in love with Mexican cuisine when in LA. My husband and I ate it every day, after first trying it at Loteria at the Farmers Market on our first day. So different from the texmex stuff we get here in Australia - we loved it! Wish we had some more authentic mexican food in Sydney... it's slowly getting there!

  • At 7/29/2013 9:15 am, Anonymous john | heneedsfood said…

    The Mexican food in the States is just far more superior than the stuff we get here in Oz. And cheaper! Man I look forward to a good dose of this glorious food!

  • At 7/29/2013 9:23 am, Blogger Ramen Raff said…

    Errmahgerrd!! hahaha so much Mexican food awesomeness! Seemed like your taco radar was on the ball when you saw the queue for the food truck! Such a shame I didn't get to eat much Mexican food when we went to LA.

  • At 7/29/2013 11:23 am, Blogger Milktea Eats said…

    the flan and spit roast looks amazing! drooling!

  • At 7/29/2013 12:18 pm, Anonymous Paul said…

    My wife is Mexican, and though I agreethe US (in particular LA and quite a lot of Texas) nas great Mexican food, it does lack the regional variety you get when travelling through Mexico.

    For example - Oaxaca has 7 different types of Mole. If you want those outside of Oaxaca its pretty hard to find. Monterrey is famous for its meat, in particular Cabrito (goat). Pachuca is famous for tamales and barbacoa. Barbacoa elsewhere in the country is made with beef, in Pachuca its done with lamb (and as an Aussie I loved it) - the consume in particular).

    The list goes on, every time I visit (5 times now) we go somewhere new and encounter a totally different take on Mexican food, whereas places I've visited in southern Texas and LA are more generic.

    Some of the difficulty in doing it in Australia comes from the ingredients - epozole isn't available in Australian and I believe there are import restrictions, and nopal was actually banned from being grown in Australia (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prickly_pears_in_Australia).

    Oh and if you haven't tried the fruit from the nopal (called tuna in Mexico) you are missing out!

  • At 7/29/2013 3:14 pm, Blogger Unknown said…

    Oh GOD!!!
    I want to eat all of this food! I love Mexican food and I would like to try authentic Mexican. his all looks so flavoursome especially the Tamales chile rojo con carne and the tamales rajas con queso... I need a trip to LA!

  • At 7/29/2013 5:47 pm, Anonymous gastronomous anonymous said…

    This post has made me realise how much i miss LA! will definitely need to go back and so much Mexican food goodness!!!!

  • At 7/29/2013 9:38 pm, Blogger Sarah said…

    OMG! That all looks so incredible! I know that modern Mexican food is popular in Australia at the moment, but the food in your post is a whole new level! So jealous!!! :)

  • At 7/29/2013 9:50 pm, Anonymous Cara @ Gourmet Chick said…

    So jealous of your LA trip and all the food trucks. Looks amazing

  • At 7/29/2013 10:50 pm, Anonymous msihua said…

    Can't get enough of your US adventures! And for some reason I can't get Mary Murphy's voice shouting "HOT TAMALE TRAIN" in my head 0_0

  • At 7/29/2013 11:00 pm, Blogger Unknown said…

    Hot tamales!! Wooo!!! I've been watching too much SYTYCD.

    I love how cheap eating in the states seem to be. No wonder it stokes the fires of gluttony.

  • At 7/29/2013 11:33 pm, Blogger Jacq said…

    I am so hungry for tacos right now. Who knew that there was a non-crunchy version of chicharron!?

  • At 7/29/2013 11:38 pm, Blogger Helen (Grab Your Fork) said…

    Hi Jarhead - Crackling makes everything better!

    Hi Ally - lol you took the words right outta my mouth!

    Hi Angela - I did love the proliferation of food trucks in LA. And thanks :)

    Hi Vivian - The salad salsa bar was amazing. So much delicious herbage.

    Hi My Kitchen Stories - We had an awesome time. Great food-loving company was such a help too!

    Hi Chocolatesuze - Everybody now!

    Hi Annie - I have a strange obsession with tamales. lol. It's like the Mexican version of Chinese sticky rice parcels!

    Hi Tina - lol we struggled with some of the menus but the waiters were always helpful!

    Hi thesuzchef - Agreed. I was really keen to have Mexican in LA. Next place I'd love to eat at would be Mexico itself!

    Hi John - I loved the freshness and vibrancy of flavours, and the tortilla shells themselves were a revelation. I'm envious of your upcoming trip!

    Hi Ramen Raff - Haha I was just glad that Suze noticed the queue as well! Mexican was high on my priority list - before we went into the next stage featuring meat comas!

  • At 7/29/2013 11:44 pm, Blogger Helen (Grab Your Fork) said…

    Hi Amy - The spit roast was cool, especially in the dim parking lot. Better than TV!

    Hi Paul - I would love to go through Mexico but we didn't have time on this trip. I'm also obsessed with mole - I love the complexity of flavours. We didn't get to try the nopal fruit, alas. Will have to return. Or even better, go to Mexico! Thanks so much for your informative comment too.

    Hi Gourmet Getaways - Go go go! I had never really been that interested in visiting LA until I realised all the awesome food that could be eaten. lol

    Hi Gastronomous Anonymous - I think you should definitely go back - just a little detour from HK? Haha. Dragon will have a ball!

    Hi Sarah - The Mexican was amazing, but the downside is that all future tacos in Australia will struggle to measure up. lol

    Hi Cara - Wait until I take you to Austin! :)

    Hi Msihua - Haha now I can't get her screeching out of my head!

    Hi Tambourine - lol always good to find another SYTYCD fan. And yes eating in the States is definitely cheaper than here, although you have to remember to add taxes and tips - sometimes that means another 30%.

  • At 7/29/2013 11:44 pm, Blogger Helen (Grab Your Fork) said…

    Hi Jacq - Haha words cannot adequately describe the look of disappointment on Suze's face!

  • At 7/30/2013 4:08 pm, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    Good stuff, looks like the most authentic Mexican food you can find outside of Mexico. And cheap too.

  • At 7/30/2013 6:21 pm, Blogger CQUEK said…

    Mexican food- wow!all look so good and yummy. i love pita.

  • At 7/30/2013 7:42 pm, Anonymous Christine @ Cooking Crusade said…

    I have a good friend in LA at the moment so this post comes at the perfect time for her hehe. I can't wait to revisit America to eat ALL the Mexican food! Great post!!

  • At 7/30/2013 9:24 pm, Blogger Felicia @ Next Stop: Food said…

    OMG ... everything looks so good!!
    I don't think I am keeping up well enough to list all these places down!! :( hahaha!!
    Travelling with fellow foodies must have been superbly awesome!!

    - Cassie @ Next Stop: Food

  • At 7/31/2013 11:07 am, Blogger Lisa (bakebikeblog) said…

    Oh my lordy - I am now craving Mexican food like crazy!!

  • At 7/31/2013 1:08 pm, Anonymous Noodleboy said…

    Hey Helen heard you on 2SER yesterday! You're a radio natural :)

    Loving your US eating posts.

  • At 7/31/2013 2:01 pm, Blogger SinoSoul said…

    next time in LA, hit up Guisado's instead of Loteria for better guisado, Taco Tamix or Tacos Leo for better al pastor tacos than El Flamin' tacos, and Rocio's Mole de los Dioses for moles instead of Lilliana (even though I only live 12 mintues away from Lilliana)

  • At 7/31/2013 5:50 pm, Anonymous ChopinandMysaucepan said…

    Dear Helen,

    Those taco wraps would be really fun for a home party coz not much cooking ad everyone can join in and DIY.

    Mexican is not quite my favourite cuisine but I do like Salma Hayek.

  • At 8/04/2013 10:17 pm, Anonymous LisaKK said…

    Looks like an awesome trip, and thanks for the recommendations! I'm a frequent traveler to LA and with so much choice, it's hard to decide where to go - lots of hits and misses

    If you're ever back in LA, I recommend you try a place called The Boiling Crab. Back a couple of years ago it was a one-restaurant place in Orange County serving Creole crab and crawfish boil built by a Vietnamese family originating from Texas, now you have to wait in a queue, and there's about 15 different locations including in Las Vegas! It is totally worth waiting for!

  • At 8/05/2013 12:51 pm, Blogger Helen (Grab Your Fork) said…

    Hi lateraleating - The food was amazingly cheap. And so tasty!

    Hi cquek - Was great to get real Mexican.

    Hi Christine - I'd happily go again. And thanks. Hope your friend is having an awesome time!

    Hi Cassie - lol you got all the links and maps too. And yes was definitely much fun travelling with fellow food lovers.

    Hi Lisa - Ha me too!

    Hi Noodleboy - Awww shucks thanks. Radio is a little scary but at least people can't see me! Ha

    Hi SinoSoul - Thanks so much for the heads up. I did some research online but getting tips from a local is always invaluable.

    Hi Chopin - DIY is always a winner when it comes to party food!

    Hi LisaKK - We actually went to the Boiling Crab when we returned to LA for our flight home. Post will be coming, um, eventually :) And yes the crab was awesome!

  • At 8/24/2013 5:57 am, Anonymous Lawrie Brinkerhoff said…

    When I’m craving for Mexican food, Tamales Liliana’s is always my first choice. Their selection is enough to satisfy whatever I’m craving for, and you can never go amiss with a big cup of champurrado.


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