Veal Jager Schnitzel $18.30
with mushroom sauce
When we'd last had dinner at Una's on Broadway, the place was still relatively new, and the restaurant was only at thirty per cent capacity. Fast forward twenty-one months later and the restaurant is packed. As the only branch of the Una's chain that accepts bookings, it's also wall-to-wall with birthday parties and group dinners.
Little has changed since then, and the menu is still a protein-fest of pork, veal and chicken. This is hearty Austrian-style food to please the hungriest chest-thumping male--vegetables aren't flimsy wisps of micro-greens but great big stodges of potato rosti and solid wads of pickled sauerkraut.
Kassler rib $15.40
with sauerkraut and rosti
Despite the crowd, our food arrives in fifteen minutes. The mustard that accompanies the kassler rib, arrives in a glass that is messy around the edges. It may be no-nonsense in presentation, but like most of the things on the menu, it does the job.
The kassler rib is a thick hearty carving of gammon steak, the mustard is sweet and mild.
Pork knuckle $18.90
with rosti and sauerkraut
I went straight for the pork knuckle, a hearty fistful of bone bearing tender mouthfuls of dark braised meat. There's a little bit of crackling skin on mine, and I end up picking up the entire bone in both hands and gnawing off every little sliver of flesh with carnivorous delight.
The rosti is every starch-lover's dream, all carby potato goodness with a golden brown top that adds a constrasting crunch. The sauerkraut is only mildly pickled, more sweet than sour.
(accompanies the schnitzel)
I glance over enviously at the gigantic schnitzel, a crumbed and golden-fried fillet that is the size of a small country. I often dismiss the schnitzel as boring, but then regret it when it arrives in its simple gratifying glory.
Next time I'm ordering that, I promise myself. Then I pick up that pork knuckle, and nibble on it some more.
Una's on Broadway
133-135 Broadway, Ultimo, Sydney
Tel: +61 (02) 9211 3805
Related GrabYourFork posts:
Una's on Broadway, Ultimo, August 2005 (breakfast)
Una's on Broadway, Ultimo, March 2005 (dinner)
Una's on Broadway, Ultimo, pre-opening
Una's Darlinghurst, March 2005
Una's Darlinghurst, February 2005
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12/30/2006 09:47:00 pm