Madame Brussels, Melbourne

Eclectic, quirky and devil-may-care, Melbourne is constantly full of welcome surprises.

Of course, unless luck happens to be in your favour, many of Melbourne's treasures are best-kept secrets known only by locals. For the casual tourist, it's likely you will walk by in complete oblivion and not even realise that you're missing the discreet entrances down alleys, hidden in basements or tucked away on the rooftops of city buildings.

It's with great fortune, then, that Billy and I have local expertise to draw on, with Iron Chef Shellie suggesting Madame Brussels as the perfect spot for a last-minute meet-up with herself and Adrian from Food Rehab, both Melbourne food bloggers.


The indoor parlour bar

The Bourke Street building, named the Spaghetti Tree, is otherwise non-descript, with only a small sign on the wall advising its presence. We take the stairs, ascending three flights up to the rooftop - it's only as we leave that I realise there's an elevator. Just when we think we've ascended the stairs in vain, we find ourselves ejected into a hubbub of people, all sipping on cocktails and laughing with what seems like nary a care in the world.


Astroturf in the indoor parlour

I have to blink and pause a moment to take in my surroundings. This burst of lightheaded surrealism is no doubt a result of the decor, mostly the indoor parlour in which we find ourselves standing. The parlour is covered incongruously with astroturf, a paved pathway leading us out toward a rooftop balcony that dazzles with sunshine. An eclectic mix of garden furniture is strewn throughout, and the utter bizarreness--of the carpet of grass inside a building, of a trellis and hedge-look backdrop to the internal bar--makes you feel like Alice in Wonderland, and you may find yourself giving in and smiling with ludicrous glee.


Cupcakes

Whilst the bar is well-stocked with every liquor imaginable, most of the menu is devoted to cocktails, available in jugs for two (singles) or four (doubles), a reference to tennis that continues with the country club outfits worn by bar staff.


Warsaw Mule $50 for a "doubles" jug (four people)

In the shimmering heat, we order the Warsaw Mule, a refreshing concoction of vodka, ginger ale and mint. At $50 for a jug that doles out 5-6 wine glasses, it's not cheap, but patrons don't come for the value, they come for the atmosphere.


The Madame of Madame Brussels (left) greets a customer

The glaring sunshine can be harsh on the rooftop, but patrons can avail themselves of paper parasols, their bright colours and floral motifs only adding to the kitsch 1950s feel.


The French absinthe ritual, slowly dissolving a sugar cube with iced water

The staff are themselves a marvel, whether they're dressed in cinos and polo tops, knitted vests or terry towelling shorts, they flit discreetly through the crowd, taking orders or delivering drinks and snacks with an air of cool aplomb.


Polo shirt and chinos

Whilst some may think it camp and cheesy, we embrace its spirit of fun and cheekiness.


Delivering sandwiches


Pink polo shirts and knitted vests
should never be underestimated


Parasols maketh the party




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Madame Brussels
Level 3, 59-63 Bourke St, Melbourne, Victoria
Tel: +61 (03) 9662 2775

Opening hours:
Sunday to Wednesday 12pm-11pm
Thursday to Saturday 12pm-1am


Grab Your Fork attended the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival as a guest of Tourism Victoria. We visited Madame Brussels anonymously and paid for all drinks personally.

> Read the next Melbourne post (Lord of the Fries)
< Go back to the first Melbourne Food & Wine Festival 2010 post

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