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Monday, February 04, 2013

Excelsior Jones, Ashfield

pork hock with hash at excelsior jones ashfield

Excelsior Jones may have only been trading for three weeks (day one was January 11) but locals can't get enough. Ashfield is home to many a fine dumpling house, but finding a decent cafe has always been a struggle. Co-owners Anthony Svilicich and James Naylor (both ex- Le Monde) have come to the rescue, opening up Excelsior Jones in a long-gone local grocery store in a residential street in Ashfield.

The name sounds more like a superhero but apparently Excelsior and Jones were both former names of Queen Street where it sits, research undertaken by Anthony early on.

The corner building on a triangular-shaped block reminds me a little of Cornersmith in Marrickville, and so too, does it herald a new sense of hipster chic in a previously daggy (and proud of it) suburb.

kitchen counter seating at cafe excelsior jones ashfield
Seating at the kitchen counter

Inside, the dining room is awash with natural light from surrounding large windows. There's plenty of evidence of attention to the finer details, like a slick logo and industrial light fittings and there are more brown science bottles (for tap water and sugar) than a hipster could possibly ask for. Wooden chairs and tables and bare floor boards give a clean finish but minimal insulation can make for a loud and clangy meal when the room is full (and on weekends, that's almost always).

coffees at excelsior jones ashfield
Coffees $3.50

We fuel up with coffees and chai for our weekend breakfast. They use Five Senses coffee beans here and my double shot flat white is reasonably strong with a smooth finish.

barista at excelsior jones ashfield
Five Senses coffee beans at Excelsior Jones uses Five Senses coffee beans

chai at excelsior jones ashfield
Chai $4.50

eggs benedict at excelsior jones ashfield
Eggs benedict $14

The breakfast menu runs through lighter options like house-made granola with yoghurt ($10), poached and fresh summer fruits ($11) and sourdough pikelets with strawberry compote and custard ($13). We skip past the sauteed field mushrooms ($14) and bacon and egg sandwich ($10) and move into heartier fare, like the eggs benedict - two toasted muffin halves draped with smoky Black Forest gypsy ham, poached eggs and a runny lake of perfect Hollandaise.

salmon hash at excelsior jones ashfield
House-cured salmon hash $14
with pearl shallots, fried buckwheat, poached egg and fresh herbs

Hash is my kind of breakfast. Nobbly bits of potato are pan-fried with buckwheat until crispy on the edges, served with micro leaves, sweet bulbs of slow roasted pearl shallots and a quivering poached egg hiding a runny yolk that will spill lusciously over everything in its path. The hash comes with shredded pork hock or chunks of house-smoked salmon, so intensely smoky it jars the palate at first, but the flesh is soft and rich.

chef in open kitchen at excelsior jones ashfield
View into the open kitchen

carrot cake at excelsior jones ashfield
Carrot cake

In hindsight we should have shared the pikelets for dessert, but we're distracted by the cakes in the window that include strawberry cheesecake and almond madeleines. We share a demure slice of carrot cake, moist and nutty with an artistic squiggle of cream cheeses frosting and two caramelised walnuts on top.

carrot cake and strawberry cheesecake desserts at excelsior jones ashfield
Carrot cakes and strawberry cheesecakes behind the counter

We don't get to the lunch menu but the slow roasted lamb sandwich ($14), marinated zucchini and haloumi sandwich ($12) and grass-fed Angus beef cheeseburger ($16) all sound tempting. You can even relive your childhood with housemade chicken nuggets and chips ($10) and a spider ($6).

excelsior jones cafe ashfield


View Larger Map
Excelsior Jones on Urbanspoon

Excelsior Jones
139A Queen Street, Ashfield, Sydney
Tel: +61 (02) 9799 3240

Opening hours:
Tuesday to Friday 7.30am-4pm
Saturday and Sunday 8am-4pm
Kitchen closed 3pm
Closed on Mondays
23 comments - Add some comment love

posted by Helen (Grab Your Fork) on 2/04/2013 02:33:00 am


23 Comments:

  • At 2/04/2013 8:50 am, Anonymous chocolatesuze said…

    mmm that has looks tasty but zomg you didn't try the butterscotch milkshake?? it's the BEST!!!

     
  • At 2/04/2013 9:10 am, Blogger Angie Lives to Eat (and Cook)! said…

    You are mighty quick! Mmm smokey salmon ;) No egg yolk porn? :p

     
  • At 2/04/2013 10:11 am, Anonymous M said…

    oh I know this spot. Didn't realise it had been turned into a trendy cafe. Will have to head down and check it out soon. Can't believe how trendy Ashfield is becoming!

     
  • At 2/04/2013 10:20 am, Anonymous Hannah said…

    That Salmon Hash would totally be my pick too, particularly considering that's exactly the kind of dinner I smoosh together for myself most nights. And oh, pikelets! Childhood memories!

     
  • At 2/04/2013 10:38 am, Blogger Sherrie @ Crystal Noir said…

    Yay an awesome cafe that's close to my house! Looks like I have to make a trip for that hash and a big cabinet of cakes sounds so delicious :D

     
  • At 2/04/2013 11:38 am, Blogger Ramen Raff said…

    mmmm runny hollandaise! Love a strong coffee with a smooth finish. Love the space too!

     
  • At 2/04/2013 11:52 am, Blogger Mel said…

    Looks fantastic - I think I'd get the hash with smoked salmon! YUM. Love the decor, reminds of Cornersmith like you've said.

     
  • At 2/04/2013 3:51 pm, Anonymous billy@a table for two said…

    pork hock and hash FTW, add black pudding too if they must! :)

     
  • At 2/04/2013 4:07 pm, Blogger Jacq said…

    the hash looks like a delicious brekky dish. I think I'd have a hard time choosing between pork hock and house-smoked salmon - both sound equally as good!

     
  • At 2/04/2013 8:30 pm, Anonymous thesuzchef said…

    Wow, this looks way too trendy to be in Ashfield! A hop, skip and a jump from me - so will definitely be trying it out!

     
  • At 2/05/2013 1:50 am, Anonymous Christina @ The Hungry Australian said…

    Oh yeah - I can totally see why this place is so popular! Great post, Helen.

     
  • At 2/05/2013 10:50 am, Blogger Vivian - vxdollface said…

    cannot wait to head there this weekend ^^ and it's much closer to get to ashfield than it is to head to surry hills for a hipster breakfast :)

     
  • At 2/05/2013 10:18 pm, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    I think it's great that restaurateurs are exploring other suburbs aside from the usual suspects. I don't go to Ashfield very often but I would catch a train just to try this place out.

     
  • At 2/06/2013 1:24 pm, Blogger Tina @ bitemeshowme said…

    Definitely loving all these new gems popping up. The hash sounds amazing and who would go passed that??? If only I made my way to ashfield more often...

     
  • At 2/06/2013 5:09 pm, Blogger Unknown said…

    mmmm carrot cakes? don't think I've tried one yet...wonder how it's like...><

     
  • At 2/07/2013 3:12 pm, Anonymous Anna @ The Littlest Anchovy said…

    I keep looking at those poached eggs and willing them to burst open. I'm going to forward this post to my bro who lives in the area - he will love it.

     
  • At 2/09/2013 1:22 am, Blogger Milktea Eats said…

    this place looks pretty good and is so close to me! thx for the review!

     
  • At 2/09/2013 11:11 am, Anonymous Gourmet Getaways said…

    Your images were mouth watering, I loved the cute carrot cake picture :)

    Great review :)

     
  • At 2/10/2013 2:47 am, Anonymous Mr C @ The CK Diary said…

    Wow the eggs benedict looks absolutely DELICIOUS, will have to check this place out soon!

     
  • At 2/10/2013 9:54 pm, Blogger Unknown said…

    I need to bring myself here and try out this place. Each time I visit Ashfield it pretty much means I am there to get my shang fix. Not next time though!!

     
  • At 2/11/2013 5:14 pm, Blogger Helen (Grab Your Fork) said…

    Hi Angie - It was eggs-rated. lol

    Hi Hannah - I want to eat at your house!

    Hi Sherrie - Fab to see Ashfield/ Ashbury taking off these days!

    Hi Jacq - That's why you steal from someone else's plate. lol

    Hi lateraleating - I agree and I think they really do bring life back to the suburbs, when so many seem to taken over by giant shopping centres that take people off the footpath.

    Hi Anna - Perfect excuse to pay him a visit. lol

    Hi Shanshan - Resist. The. Dumplings. :P

     
  • At 2/11/2013 5:14 pm, Blogger Helen (Grab Your Fork) said…

    Hi Angie - It was eggs-rated. lol

    Hi Hannah - I want to eat at your house!

    Hi Sherrie - Fab to see Ashfield/ Ashbury taking off these days!

    Hi Jacq - That's why you steal from someone else's plate. lol

    Hi lateraleating - I agree and I think they really do bring life back to the suburbs, when so many seem to taken over by giant shopping centres that take people off the footpath.

    Hi Anna - Perfect excuse to pay him a visit. lol

    Hi Shanshan - Resist. The. Dumplings. :P

     
  • At 2/22/2013 12:18 pm, Anonymous Best Restaurants said…

    I'm desperate to try here. The coffee shots are making me crave another latte now...

     

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