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Monday, November 11, 2013

Things to do on Kangaroo Island

Pristine waters of Kangaroo Island, South Australia

I went to Kangaroo Island and I didn't see a single kangaroo. Really. But who can think about kangaroos when you're staring at crystal clear waters like this?

It's as though you just stepped into a scene from a postcard. Sandy white beach, rolling green hills and the sea - a mesmerising vision of swirling blues.


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Where is Kangaroo Island? It's about 16km off the coast of South Australia. Most people get there via a 45 minute ferry crossing from Cape Jervis or a 30 minute flight from Adelaide. On our recent visit to Kangaroo Island, hosted by the South Australian Tourism Commission, we start with an early morning two hour flight from Sydney to Adelaide. From Adelaide we'll drive to Cape Jervis, meandering through the vineyards of Mclaren Vale along the way.


Alpha Box and Dice

alpha box and dice vineyard mclaren value south australia
Alpha Box and Dice

McLaren Vale is incredibly close to Adelaide. We arrive at our first vineyard, Alpha Box & Dice in under an hour's drive from Adelaide Airport. Our driver Greg, from Wine Diva Tours, is originally from Queensland, but when he visited the Fleurieu Peninsula on holiday, he packed everything up and relocated south in less than a week.

Justin Lane winemaker tasting Alpha Box & Dice, McLaren Vale, South Australia
Justin Lane, owner and winemaker at Alpha Box & Dice

Alpha Box & Dice is one of the younger vineyards in the area, started in 2008 by young winemaker Justin Lane. He has a limited crop of grapes in his vineyard so combines these with his pick of grapes from other vineyards to create his own unique blends. These are bottled in a range from runs from A to Z.

Spit bucket bed chamber at Alpha Box & Dice McLaren Vale South Australia
Chamber pot spit bucket

There's a wacky sense of fun at this quirky cellar door, from the pinball machines in one corner to the eclectic sitting room next door. It's a haven of vintage furnishings including old records, an antique dentist chair and even a taxidermied fox resting on the side of a lounge.


alpha box and dice vineyard mclaren vale south australia
Vineyards at Alpha Box and Dice


d'Arenberg

swinging malaysian blind tiger d'arenberg single vineyard wine bottles mclaren vale south australia
The Swinging Malaysian and the Blind Tiger single vineyard shiraz wines

At the other end of the scale, d'Arenberg is steeped in history. Established in 1912, d'Arenberg is one of the oldest vineyards in the region. It's also charming to see that d'Arenberg isn't averse to having fun with its label either, modernising its single vineyard wines with a pictorial-style label while still retaining its trademark red diagonal stripe design.

The Swinging Malaysian shiraz raises lots of eyebrows but it actually refers to the vineyard itself, which was first planted with shiraz, grafted to riesling and then reverted to shiraz again. Malaysian vineyard posts were also imported for use in this vineyard but had to be abandoned as they weren't strong enough.

The single vineyard wines are refined yet complex on the palate, and the stickies (dessert wines) are worth a look too. The Noble Botryotinia Fuckeliana (yes really) semillon sauvignon blanc is always a good one to bring to a dinner party!


d'Arrys Verandah Restaurant

fried stuffed olives canapes d'Arrys Verandah Restaurant, McLaren Vale, South Australia
Hot stuffed Spanish queen olives with lime aioli $6

Slip on through the d'Arenberg cellar door and you'll find d'Arry's Verandah Restaurant. It's high up on the hill and its floor-to-ceiling windows offer sweeping views of McLaren Vale.

dining room diners d'Arrys Verandah Restaurant, McLaren Vale
d'Arry's dining room

The menu is comprehensive with eight mains, eight entrees and twelve choices for dessert. And the best thing about having a restaurant next to a vineyard is the wide range of wines by the glass.

verrine snapper broth yuzu sago miso foam d'Arrys Verandah Restaurant, McLaren Vale
Verrine of snapper broth with yuzu sago and miso foam $6

It's a little bit fancy, but diners seem to relish the attention and the presentation.

oysters tasting board d'Arrys Verandah Restaurant, McLaren Vale
Oyster tasting plate [L-R]: kimchi and roe;  au naturel; and bonito omelette with yuzu foam

steak tartare beef tartare d'Arrys Verandah Restaurant, McLaren Vale
Beef tartare with white anchovy and parsley salad $25

I order the beef tartare to start, a turret of hand chopped beef mixed with capers, cornichons, red onion and herbs crowned with a glossy raw egg yolk. A salad of white anchovy, red onion and parsley gave an acidic zing.

lobster medallion ravioli bisque d'Arrys Verandah Restaurant, McLaren Vale
Lobster medallion with blue swimmer crab and prawn ravioli and lobster bisque $30

The lobster medallion generates plenty of excitement with its arrival, especially as the aroma of lobster bisque wafts around the table. The amount of lobster on the plate is impressive, too, for the price.

roast duck poultry d'Arrys Verandah Restaurant, McLaren Vale
Duck leg and breast with daikon, radish, beetroot and citrus salad, radish cake and star anise marmalade $37

fried dorper lamb brains d'Arrys Verandah Restaurant, McLaren Vale
Fried d'Arry's dorper lamb brains with du puy lentil, mint, pickled walnut salad and toasted walnut mayonnaise $23

I order a second entree for my main - lamb brains! The scant crumb means you get full view of the cerebrum in all its coiled up glory. The brains are rich and super creamy, served on a bed of puy lentils with garnishes of pickled walnuts, fried sage leaves and toasted walnut mayonnaise.

lime ginger curd sticky rice pudding lychee sorbet coconut crisp dessert sweet d'Arrys Verandah Restaurant, McLaren Vale
Lime and ginger curd with sticky rice pudding, lychee sorbet and coconut crisp $17

Desserts are much more elaborate than we expected too. Sticky rice pudding is served on a plate with a scoop of lychee sorbet, wafer thin coconut crisps and a lingering trail of tangy lime and ginger curd.

Nougat doughnut donut saffron honey ice cream turkish delight dessert sweet d'Arrys Verandah Restaurant, McLaren Vale
Nougat doughnut with saffron honey ice cream, pistachio croquant and turkish delight $17

The nougat doughnut is light and fluffy, but even before we've wiped the crumbs of sugar off our lips we've already started attacking the path lined with turkish delight and pistachio-topped honey saffron ice cream.

Passionfruit souffle at d'Arrys Verandah Restaurant, McLaren Vale
Passionfruit souffle with pouring cream $18

Who can resist ordering a souffle? The passionfruit souffle looms high above the walls of its fortress, its tartness tempered by a good dousing of pouring cream.

Spoonful of passionfruit souffle with cream at d'Arrys Verandah Restaurant, McLaren Vale
Passionfruit souffle with cream


Kangaroo Island

Idyllic rolling hills and blue water of Kangaroo Island, South Australia

It takes 45 minutes to take the SeaLink ferry from Cape Jervis to Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island (or KI, as locals call it). There are three ferries each day with a one-way fare costing $49 per adult and $94 per car. It's terrifically windy on the day we travel (wear a headscarf if you go out onto the deck) and although the seas can get rough on occasion, our journey is relatively calm.

Penneshaw Hotel, Kangaroo Island
Penneshaw Hotel

With a length of 150km, Kangaroo Island is bigger than you'd think. It's still a sleepy place though, and the main street of Penneshaw is country-style quaint. There's a reason noone hangs around the shops though - the stunning scenery is a much worthier distraction.

Boardwalk to viewing platform at Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island
Boardwalk to viewing platform at Penneshaw

Jagged rocks on the shore of Kangaroo Island
Jagged rocks on the shore

Round leaved pig face plants, Kangaroo Island
Round leaved pig face

Rocks along the coastline of Kangaroo Island
Rocks along the coastline

Kangaroo Island coastline view from Willoughby Lighthouse
Kangaroo Island coastline from Willoughby Lighthouse, the oldest lighthouse on KI

Dragon Ball Z jumping photo!
Dragon Ball Z jumping photo!

Oh yes we did. lol.

Fish of Penneshaw

Fish of Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island
Fish of Penneshaw

Kangaroo Island is the kind of place that compels people to stay. Sue Pearson is one of those people. A former chef at the Ivy restaurant in London, Sue took on a chef position at a Kangaroo Island restaurant. When the restaurant failed, she stayed on, starting gourmet catering company Two Birds and a Squid ten years ago, and then Fish, a fish and chip shop. It was the first fish and chip shop on the island.

Sue splits her time between London and Kangaroo Island. She runs Fish from October to mid-April and then escapes the KI winter for summer in the Northern Hemisphere.

Sue Pearson, chef at Fish of Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island
Sue Pearson, former chef at London's Ivy restaurant, at Fish of Penneshaw

Fish sits on the site of a former laundromat. The menu is short and the opening hours are shorter. Sue makes good use of local seafood, especially Kangaroo Island garfish and King George whiting.

Salt and pepper prawns at Fish of Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island
Salt and pepper prawns

The kitchen is tiny but service is fast. She's a whir of activity as customers come in through the door. The shop opens at 4.30pm for dinner and closes at 7.45pm. All too often she's sold out before then.

Kangaroo Island King George whiting with salt and pepper prawns, chips and salad at Fish of Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island
Kangaroo Island King George whiting with salt and pepper prawns, chips and salad

There's only one table to sit at so we get our dinner takeaway. It's leaps and bounds ahead of your regular takeaway, with a fillet of King George whiting flash-fried in an oatmeal crumb crust, salt and pepper prawns and a lively fresh salad on the side. The chips are the best bit though - fluffy on the inside with a superb long-lasting crunch.

Canopy bed at Seaview Lodge, Kangaroo Island
Canopy bed at Seaview Lodge

We spend our first night at Seaview Lodge where I manage to score a canopy bed. So lo-mantic.


Sea Spray Cafe

Breakfast with a view at Sea Spray Cafe, Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island
Breakfast with a view of Backstairs Passage

Breakfast is at Sea Spray Cafe, part tourist shop, part cafe, with views out the window of Backstairs Passage, the stretch of water between Kangaroo Island and the mainland.

Bacon, eggs, sausages and mushrooms at Sea Spray Cafe, Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island
Sea Spray Breaky $16.50

There ain't nothing fancy on the menu, just traditional cooked breakfasts or pancakes. Prices seem a little steep at first, but it's worth remembering that everything has to be brought over by ferry from the mainland.

Blueberry pancakes with a side of bacon at Sea Spray Cafe, Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island
Blueberry pancakes $10.50 with a side of bacon $2

I do manage to raise an eyebrow or two when I ask for a side of bacon with my blueberry pancakes but it's worth it. The sweet and savoury combo hits the spot.

Chapman River Wines


Chapman River Wines cellar door, Kangaroo Island

Chapman River Wines opened in 2008 when husband and wife Bruce and Diana Keir had their own sea change and relocated from Adelaide to Kangaroo Island in 2002.

Former airplane hangar Chapman River Wines cellar door, Kangaroo Island
Cellar door converted from a former airplane hangar 

The cellar door sits in a converted airplane hangar. What was once an open tin shed is now a warm and cosy cellar door.

Lounges and artworks at Chapman River Wines cellar door, Kangaroo Island
Dining and lounge area

Diana is a trained potter but also paints, and the walls are filled with eclectic artworks.

Happiness wines at Chapman River Wines cellar door, Kangaroo Island
Chapman River Wines Happiness range

Bruce wanted to name their wine after the nearby Chapman River; Diana wanted to call it happiness. They compromised and named it both. The wines are young here, with the first vintage only dating back to 2004: a cabernet sauvignon merlot shiraz.

Bruce Kier, co-owner of Chapman River Wines cellar door, Kangaroo Island
Bruce Kier, co-owner of Chapman River Wines

Bruce is warm and friendly, with the gentlemanlike qualities of a doting grandfather. There's no restaurant yet, but they do offer a tasting plate, groaning with local and handmade products like haloumi, pickled grapes, Metwurst, homemade crackers and lamb ham - made from lamb!

Tasting plate at Chapman River Wines cellar door, Kangaroo Island
Chapman River Wines tasting plate


Kangaroo Island Source

Crystal clear waters of Kangaroo Island
Crystal clear waters of Kangaroo Island

Lunch is a spectacular treat. Kate Sumner from catering and cooking company, Kangaroo Island Source, whisks us away to a private property that sits on a cliff with jawdropping views of the water.

White washing on the line against a blue sky on Kangaroo Island
Whites and blues

Lunch with a stunning view on Kangaroo Island
Kate Sumner from Kangaroo Island Source preparing our lunch with a view

The scene is surreal. A single picnic bench, a catered lunch, and a pinch-me-I'm-dreaming-view.

American River oysters, Kangaroo Island
American River oysters

Freshly shucked oysters, farmed on the local American River, are plump and satisfyingly briny.

Lamb kofte balls by KI Source, Kangaroo Island
Lamb kofte

We wend our way through springy balls of lamb kofte, quinoa and brown rice salad, and squeaky pillows of Island Pure grilled halloumi. The highlight is the abalini, also known as baby abalone that Kate has confited in olive oil before crumbing and pan-frying in Kangaroo Island olive oil.

Quinoa and brown rice salad by KI Source, Kangaroo Island
Quinoa and brown rice salad

Grilled Island Pure haloumi with beetroot chutney
Island Pure haloumi with beetroot chutney

Crystal blue waters for a private beach on Kangaroo Island
That's a private beach right there

We're awestruck by the beach, especially when Kate tells us it's practically private as access to the beach is only via this property. We're in for another treat too - a pod of dolphins who swim past and say hello!

Pod of dolphins off the coast of Kangaroo Island
A pod of dolphins in the waters off Kangaroo Island


Dudley Wines

Gully overlooking Backstairs Passage, Kangaroo Island
Steep gully overlooking Backstairs Passage that separates Kangaroo Island from the mainland

What's the best way to digest lunch? With wine, of course. We stop by Dudley Wines, a family-owned and run business started in 1994 by Jeff Howard, a fourth generation Kangaroo Island farmer.

Dudley Wines take the unusual step of ensuring all stages of production take place on Kangaroo Island. The vineyards are at Porky Flat, the site of their main cattle farm, about 15km south west of the cellar door. To bottle on the island, they hire a mobile bottling plant that is brought over by truck on a ferry from the mainland.

They have an interesting mix of wines here but I end up buying the Glossy Black, a sweet red wine that is best served cold alongside a cheese plate.

Dudley wines, Kangaroo Island
Dudley wines


Kingscote

Yarn bombed bike and railings in Kingscote, Kangaroo Island
Yarn bombed bike and railings

We drive to Kingscote, the largest town on Kangaroo Island with a sizeable population of about 2,000. There's a supermarket, several real estate agents and a row of restaurants but what I love most is the unmistakeable presence of yarn bombers in this town!

Yarn bombing at the police station, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island
Yarn bombing at the police station

Guerilla yarn bombing has hit the art gallery, the supermarket and even the police station.

Love.

Yarn bombed art gallery, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island
Yarn bombing at the art gallery

Yarn bombing dolls at the supermarket, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island
Yarn bombing at the supermarket - 28 dolls hang from the railings


Yellow Ash 'n' Chilli Cafe

Yellow Ash 'n' Chilli Cafe, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island

Dining options around Kangaroo Island are generally casual but Yellow Ash 'n' Chilli adds some Tex Mex heat to the mix.

Nachos at Yellow Ash 'n' Chilli Cafe, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island
Nachos $17.50

We plough our way through most of the menu, with most things slathered in cheese, avocado, sour cream or all three.

Prawn tostada at Yellow Ash 'n' Chilli Cafe, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island
Prawn tostada $18.75

Everything is bright and colourful here, from the woven tablecloths to the food. The nachos, with real tortilla chips, are simple but delicious, and the prawn tostada packs a wicked after kick of chilli. A big jug of sangria will soothe any tastebuds on fire.

Chicken enchilada at Yellow Ash 'n' Chilli Cafe, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island
Chicken enchilada $20

Steak burrito at Yellow Ash 'n' Chilli Cafe, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island
Steak burrito $19.75

Chocolate creme pot and chocolate brownie at Yellow Ash 'n' Chilli Cafe, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island
Chocolate creme pot and chocolate brownie 

Aurora Ozone Hotel

Pancakes, bacon, hash brown and mushrooms from the buffet breakfast at Aurora Ozone Hotel, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island
Pancakes, bacon, hash brown and mushrooms from the buffet breakfast

Accommodation for the next two nights is at the Aurora Ozone Hotel, a strange name at first but it's right on the waterfront and hey its buffet breakfast has pancakes. And bacon. And hash browns. Win.


Clifford's Honey Farm

Worker bees at Clifford's Honey Farm, Kangaroo Island
Ligurian worker bees

You can't talk about Kangaroo Island without mentioning Ligurian honey bees. Before the 1880s, no honeybees were found on Kangaroo Island. In 1884 the South Australian Chamber of Manufacturers imported a hive of honey bees from Liguria, Italy. No further bees were imported. Since then, diseases and colony collapse have affected Ligurian bee colonies all around the world. Because of Kangaroo Island's natural quarantine due to physical isolation, Kangaroo Island is the last place in the world to have pure strain Ligurian honeybees.

Bev Clifford with a rack of honey at Clifford's Honey Farm, Kangaroo Island
Bev Clifford with a rack of honey plugged with wax

At Clifford's Honey Farm, Bev Clifford takes us through the process of harvesting honey from the hives. She shows us how the racks of honey are removed from the hives, the wax scraped off for processing into candles and other bees wax products, and then the racks are loaded into the honey extractor.

Racks of honey on the extractor at Clifford's Honey Farm, Kangaroo Island
Racks of honey loaded for the honey extractor

The racks of honey are stacked into an octagonal honey extractor that uses centrifugal force to release the honey from the cells. The honey extractor heats the honey to about 32C, the same temperature as the hive, which brings the honey to liquid form.

There's a whole stack of honey for sale here but our highlight is the homemade honey ice cream, best eaten on-site at the picnic tables in the sun.

Honey extractor at Clifford's Honey Farm, Kangaroo Island
The honey extractor uses centrifugal force to release honey from the combs


Island Pure Sheep Dairy & Cheese Factory

Sheep grazing in the field at Island Pure Sheep Dairy and Cheese Factory
Sheep at Island Pure Dairy

Island Pure Sheep Dairy is a picture of idyllic farm life. Blue skies, grazing sheep and the sound of silence but for occasional bleating.

Running sheep at Island Pure Sheep Dairy and Cheese Factory
Did I hear food?

When we head out to see the sheep there's a flurry of activity when they realise there's feed hitting the trough. I've never seen sheep run so fast before.

Sheep at the feeding trough at Island Pure Sheep Dairy and Cheese Factory
Sheep at the feeding trough

Island Pure Sheep Dairy was the first sheep dairy and cheese factory in South Australia, opening in 1992. They use pure sheep's milk to make natural yoghurt and a range of cheeses, including labneh, ricotta, feta, haloumi, manchego and semi-matured manchego.

They look after the sheep here, allowing the young to stay with their mothers until the age of three months. After that the lambs are shuttled to the grandmothers of the flock, who tend to look after them like their own.

They have 2,600 ewes and 26 rams on the farm and they all look happy to be here.

Feeding the sheep at Island Pure Sheep Dairy and Cheese Factory
Extra treats for some


Kangaroo Island Fresh Seafoods and Takeaway

Fish and chips at the petrol station at Kangaroo Island Fresh Seafoods
Fish and chips at the petrol station

Lunch at the servo needn't be a warm meat pie and a bag of chips. We hunt down Kangaroo Island Fresh Seafood at the service station in Kingscote, said to offer the best fish and chips in town.

Fresh seafood for sale at Kangaroo Island Fresh Seafoods and Takeaway
Get your seafood fresh or fried

Kangaroo Island Fresh Seafoods opened in 2006, started by local fisherman Eddy Rademacher and Tina Kleeven. They process fresh fish and seafood on the premises, supplying local businesses as well as the public.

Deep fried seafood plates at Kangaroo Island Fresh Seafoods
Deep fried seafood bonanza

They also deep fry a little too.
Coffin Bay Oysters at Kangaroo Island Fresh Seafoods and Takeaway
Coffin Bay oysters

We start with a round of Coffin Bay oysters before following up with a motherlode of fried seafood.

Deep fried flathead with chips and salad at Kangaroo Island Fresh Seafoods and Takeaway
Flathead with chips and salad $16.50

They do all kinds of fish here: whiting, garfish, butterfish, flathead, snapper and flake. They've got chiko rolls, spring rolls, corn jacks and even potato scallops. The only thing that's missing here is my beloved pineapple fritter!

Deep fried snapper with chips and salad at Kangaroo Island Fresh Seafoods and Takeaway
Snapper with chips and salad $16 with a potato scallop $1.20

I go with the fried snapper pack and throw in a potato scallop for old times sake.

Light and fluffy batter at Kangaroo Island Fresh Seafoods and Takeaway
Light and fluffy batter

Spritely salad aside, the highlight of our meals is definitely the batter on that fish. Super thin but ultra crunchy, they'll happily share the secret. It's a simple batter of flour and water with vinegar added at the last minute to create bubbles.

And if you're averse to deep-fried, they'll grill your fish too.

Fishermans basket at Kangaroo Island Fresh Seafoods and Takeaway
Fishermans basket $20


Kangaroo Island Spirits

Wild gin by Kangaroo Island Spirits
Wild gin with native juniper berries

Stomachs dutifully lined, we stopped by Kangaroo Island Spirits, South Australia's only boutique distillery, run by Jon and Sarah Lark. Here they make Wild Gin in small batches, distilled in a small copper pot that sits behind the cellar door counter. It's flavoured with a native juniper berry - myoporum insulare - and is fast winning awards around the world.

Salty vodka with infused samphire by Kangaroo Island Spirits
Vodka infused with samphire

And then there are the vodkas. The most polarising one is the samphire vodka. Jon says you either love it or hate, and recommends its saltiness be utilised in a dirty martini.

We drink on up through their liquer range too. The anisette and wild fennel reminds me of licorice jelly beans (in a good way!) but there are plenty of winners here, including the honey and walnut; strawberry and vanilla; and limoncello.


Reeves Point

Reeves Point, site of the first European settlement in South Australia in 1836
Reeves Point, site of the first European settlement in South Australia in 1836

With an hour of free time one afternoon, I walked to Reeves Point, site of the first European settlement in South Australia in 1836. It's also home to the oldest cemetery in South Australia.

Graves at Reeves Point Cemetery, the oldest cemetery in South Australia
Reeves Point cemetery, the oldest cemetery in South Australia

1888 infant grave at Reeves Point Cemetery, the oldest cemetery in South Australia
1888 infant grave at Reeves Point cemetery


Bales Beach

Rolling wave and pristine sands at Bales Beach, Kangaroo Island
Rolling waves and pristine sands at Bales Beach

We also detoured via Bales Beach one afternoon.

Dragon Ball Z aka hadouken jumping photo at Bales Beach, Kangaroo Island
More jumping photo recruits!

And succumbed to another jumping photo.

Bella Cafe & Restaurant

Garlic and caper butter marron tails at Bella Cafe, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island
Andermel marron tails $22

There aren't many fancy restaurants on Kangaroo Island, but Bella Cafe seems to offer the swankiest menu. The restaurant multi-tasks as a pizza joint and a cafe, but its showcase of Kangaroo Island produce is what impresses us most.

We all order the Andermel marron tails for entrees. This turns out to be a whole marron cut in half and pan fried with garlic and caper butter. The flesh is sweet and tender although don't bother with the claws, there's not much in there, we checked.

Colony Cove non-alcoholic apple sparkler at Bella Cafe, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island
Colony Cove non-alcoholic apple sparkler

We order a bottle of pinot gris with dinner but I'm more taken by the Colony Cove non-alcoholic apple cider - super refreshing.

Roast lamb rump with blue cheese and parmesan crust at Bella Cafe, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island
Roasted lamb rump with blue cheese and parmesan crust $30

We all end up tasting each other's dishes around the table. The beef tenderloin is tender but the kangaroo is a standout - unbelievably soft and succulent.

Sicilian pizza with olives and salami at Bella Cafe, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island
Sicilian pizza with olives and salami

Seared Murraylands beef tenderloin at Bella Cafe, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island
180g seared Murraylands beef tenderloin on porcini mushroom risotto $32

Fennel and juniper marinated kangaroo fillet at Bella Cafe, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island
Fennel and juniper marinated kangaroo fillet $37 (two entree serves)

Warm flourless dark chocolate cake dessert at Bella Cafe, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island
Warm flourless dark chocolate cake $13.50
White chocolate, Island Pure yoghurt and vanilla bean pannacotta $11.50

Don't skimp on dessert either. The warm flourless dark chocolate cake comes with Frangelico anglaise, almond biscotti, double cream and pistachio crumbs. You'll score a fairyfloss afro on your white chocolate and vanilla bean pannacotta too, layered with KI Spirits strawberry liquer jelly and whipped cream.


Roger's Deli and Cafe

Lamington pies with cream at Roger's Deli and Cafe, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island
Lamington rounds with cream

I love old fashioned cakes and although I'm a little excited by the sight of these massive hot pink lamingtons sandwiched with cream, it's breakfast time.

Donuts and apple turnovers with cream at Roger's Deli and Cafe, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island
Donuts and apple turnovers with cream

Roger's Deli & Cafe combines coffee shop with sandwich shop inside a newsagency, but then multi-tasking businesses seem to be the norm on Kangaroo Island.

Bacon and egg focaccia at Roger's Deli and Cafe, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island
Bacon and egg focaccia $9.95

Breakfast on Kangaroo Island, as we've quickly discovered, is all about the staples. Don't go looking for quinoa porridge or corn fritters here. It's all about bacon and eggs, omelettes and pancakes.

Avocado, ham and mushroom omelette breakfast at Roger's Deli and Cafe, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island
Omelette with avocado, ham and mushroom $23

This picture doesn't really do the serving size justice. My omelette with avocado, ham and mushroom looks like it used four eggs, maybe more.

Fluffy pancakes with ice cream, strawberries and maple syrup at Roger's Deli and Cafe, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island
Pancakes with ice cream, maple syrup and strawberries $16.95

And for the sweet tooths there are pancakes. Two big fat fluffy discs of them, dusted with icing sugar.


Roger's Deli and Cafe, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island


Seal Bay Conservation Park

Boardwalk to the beach at Seal Bay Conservation Park, Kangaroo Island
Boardwalk to the beach at Seal Bay

But the undoubted highlight of our trip to Kangaroo Island had to be Seal Bay Conservation Park.

Seals and sea lions at Seal Bay Conservation Park, Kangaroo Island
Seals and sea lions on the beach

Seal Bay is home to the third largest colony of sea lions in Australia. There are around 1,000 sea lions here, equal to about five percent of the world population of sea lions.

Sea lions lying on the beach at Seal Bay Conservation Park, Kangaroo Island
Cutest seal lion ever

Since Seal Bay was established as a conservation park, the public can only access the beach by paying a fee. Self-led walking tours along the boardwalk cost $15. To access the beach, you'll have to be accompanied by a tour guide. The beach tour costs $32.

We're warned not to get too close to the sea lions as they can be territorial and protective, especially over their young. They have sharp teeth, we're told, with a bite similar to a bull dog or mastiff.

Courting sea lions at Seal Bay Conservation Park, Kangaroo Island
Larger male sea lion trying his luck with a female

Minimising disruption to the colony of sea lions has finally seen them thrive after enduring a century of hunting for their meat, oil and fur. Our guide says that pollution - another threat to their existence - has also improved. The only time Parks and Wildlife staff will intervene with sea lions is if they are caught up in plastic - otherwise they are left alone, even if they are sick or injured, reasoning that they shouldn't interfere with natural causes.

Swimming and sleeping sea lions at Seal Bay Conservation Park, Kangaroo Island
Swimming and sleeping - sea lion priorities

Sea lions seem to have a life of luxury but our guide explains that female sea lions have a gestation period of around 18 months. Now you know why they look so tired and sleepy all the time.

Sea lion walking up the beach at Seal Bay Conservation Park, Kangaroo Island
Sea lions can walk on land using their hindflippers; seals can only wiggle

New mums will head out to sea in search of fish, often travelling for up to three days without rest. When they return to shore they will call out to their young until it replies, recognising which child is theirs in the sand dunes.

Sea lion returns from a swim at Seal Bay Conservation Park, Kangaroo Island
Sea lion returns from a swim

The mothers will also teach their young how to swim, and our guide says with a laugh that some of the babies really don't like swimming at all!

Majestic sea lion at Seal Bay Conservation Park, Kangaroo Island
Majestic sea lion

It's hard not to be blown away by how close we are to the sea lions as they potter about their daily life. They screech, cajole and trill as we stand silent and gobsmacked under the heat of the sun.

Sleeping and sunbaking sea lions on the beach at Seal Bay Conservation Park, Kangaroo Island
It's hard work being a sea lion

Oh Kangaroo Island, we had a ball. I hope to seal you again soon!


Grab Your Fork travelled to McLaren Vale and Kangaroo Island as a guest of the South Australian Tourism Commission


MCLAREN VALE
Alpha Box & Dice
Lot 50 Oliver's Road, McLaren Vale, South Australia
Tel: +61 (08) 8323 7750
Cellar door opening hours:
Friday to Sunday 10am - 5pm

d'Arenberg
Osborn Road, McLaren Value, South Australia
Tel: +61 (08) 8329 4888
Cellar door opening hours:
Open 7 days 10am - 5pm

d'Arry's Verandah Restaurant
Osborn Road, McLaren Value, South Australia
Tel: +61 (08) 8329 4848
Opening hours:
Open 7 days for lunch from 12pm
d'Arrys Verandah on Urbanspoon

Wine Diva Tours
Tel: +61 (08) 8323 9806 or Mob +61 (0)488 946 363

KANGAROO ISLAND
Aurora Ozone Hotel
The Foreshore, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island, South Australia
Tel: +61 (08) 8553 2011

Bella Cafe Restaurant & Pizza Bar
Shop 1, 54 Dauncey Street, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island, South Australia
Tel: +61 (08) 8553 3228
Opening hours:
Open 7 days 10am til late
Restaurant Bella on Urbanspoon

Chapman River Wines
Off Cape Willoughby Road, Antechamber Bay, Kangaroo Island, South Australia
(follow the signs from Chapman River East)
Tel: +61 (08) 8553 1371
Cellar door opening hours:
Thursday to Monday 11am - 4.30pm (closed July - August)
Chapman River Wines Cellar Door on Urbanspoon

Clifford's Honey Farm
Elsegood Road, MacGillivray, Kangaroo Island, South Australia
Tel: +61 (08) 8553 8295
Opening hours:
Open 7 days 9am - 5pm

Dudley Wines
1153 Willoughby Road, Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island, South Australia
Tel: +61 (08) 8553 1371
Cellar door opening hours:
Open 7 days 10am - 5pm

Fish of Penneshaw
43 North Terrace, Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island, South Australia
Tel: +61 (08) 8553 7406
Opening hours:
Open 7 days 4.30pm - 7.45pm unless sold out earlier (closed May - mid October)
Fish at Penneshaw on Urbanspoon

Island Pure Sheep Dairy & Cheese Factory
Gum Creek Road, Cygnet River, Kangaroo Island, South Australia
Tel: +61 (08) 8553 9110
Opening hours:
Open 7 days 12pm - 4pm (milking between 2pm and 4pm)

Kangaroo Island Fresh Seafoods and Takeaway
26 Telegraph Road, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island, South Australia
Tel: +61 (08) 8553 0177
Opening hours:
Open 7 days 8am - 8.30pm
Kangaroo Island Fresh Seafoods on Urbanspoon

Kangaroo Island Source
90 Cape Willoughby Road, Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island, South Australia
Tel: +61 (08) 8553 1041

Kangaroo Island Spirits
Playford Highway, Cygnet River, Kangaroo Island, South Australia
Tel: +61 (08) 8553 9211
Cellar door opening hours:
Wednesday to Monday 11am - 5pm (closed Tuesdays)

Roger's Deli & Cafe
76 Dauncey Street, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island, South Australia
Tel: +61 (08) 8553 2053
Opening hours:
Monday to Friday 8am - 6pm, Saturday 8am - 3pm, Sunday 9am - 6pm
Rogers Deli on Urbanspoon

Sea Spray Cafe
52 Thomas Wilson Street, Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island, South Australia
Tel: +61 (08) 8553 1500
Opening hours:
Open 7 days 8am - 8pm
Sea Spray Cafe on Urbanspoon

Seal Bay Conservation Park
Seal Bay Road, Kangaroo Island, South Australia
Tel: +61 (08) 8553 4463
Opening hours:
Open 7 days 9am - 5pm (except Christmas Day)
Open until 6pm in December and January

Seaview Lodge
Lot 3 Willoughby Road, Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island, South Australia
Tel: +61 (08) 8553 1132

Yellow Ash 'n' Chilli
59 Dauncey Street, Kingscote, Kangaroo Island, South Australia
Tel: +61 (08) 8553 0330
Opening hours:
Tuesday to Saturday 10am - 8pm, Sunday 10am - 3pm
Yellow Ash & Chilli on Urbanspoon


Related Grab Your Fork posts:
SA, Eyre Peninsula - Swimming with tuna, the $100 1kg oyster and Coffin Bay Oyster Farm
SA, Adelaide Hills - Inside a working bee hive
25 comments - Add some comment love

posted by Helen (Grab Your Fork) on 11/11/2013 03:02:00 am


25 Comments:

  • At 11/11/2013 3:36 am, Anonymous chocolatesuze said…

    Epic. Kangaroo Island is awesome, so much delicious foods! and lol love the jumping shots!

     
  • At 11/11/2013 8:22 am, Blogger Unknown said…

    OMG!!!
    I always knew Kangaroo Island was a foodies paradise but I could never have imagined just how much!!! Everything looks absolutely lush!
    Your scenery shots are gorgeous too!

     
  • At 11/11/2013 8:30 am, Blogger Tina @ bitemeshowme said…

    spoilt with amazing food and drinks, and best of all them views! just wow. awesome jumping shots.. doesn't seem like a holiday/getaway without doing some of them! haha

     
  • At 11/11/2013 11:36 am, Blogger Sherrie @ Crystal Noir said…

    What a comprehensive list of things to do there - I had no idea there was so much! I'm loving the look of all the food and hooray for seals!

     
  • At 11/11/2013 12:23 pm, Blogger Jacq said…

    Looks like you had a great trip! Seal bay looks amazing - I reckon I could stand there for ages just watching the sea lions

     
  • At 11/11/2013 2:14 pm, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    Oh my goodness the blue skies and clear waters here are stunning. We haven't yet planned our family holiday for next year but I think the kids would love seeing the sea lions. Thank you for this post Helen!
    Cath

     
  • At 11/11/2013 6:08 pm, Anonymous Dan said…

    So lucky! Everything looks so delicious and plus the views! And maybe that cafe will start putting bacon and pancakes on the menu haha

     
  • At 11/11/2013 7:44 pm, Blogger Unknown said…

    Nothing quite like oysters on the beach. Obligatory hadouken as always -_0.

     
  • At 11/11/2013 9:12 pm, Anonymous msihua said…

    Woah! Everything looks so amazing! That view is amazing.. Lobster! Seals (please don't eat them)!

     
  • At 11/11/2013 9:16 pm, Anonymous Karman said…

    Haha I love that you saw dolphins but not any kangaroos on KI! I wish I did a foodie tour like you guys did, will need to spend longer exploring the island next time. Have you seen the kamehameha baby on youtube? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8umHFq7k0lk

     
  • At 11/12/2013 3:04 am, Blogger CQUEK said…

    kangaroo island- gosh gorgeous place to be. i love the way you captured all the delicious food... may i know how you shot the Dragon Ball Z jumping photo? cool!

     
  • At 11/12/2013 7:34 am, Blogger The Food Mentalist said…

    What a delightful looking place. Next time I'm going to cram myself into your suitcase! All that good food, wine and gorgeous scenery. Can't wait to visit :)

     
  • At 11/12/2013 7:35 am, Anonymous john | heneedsfood said…

    Looks like you ate pretty well down there! The weather looks glorious when you were down at the seal colony, as opposed to the blustery conditions we experienced last year. Gorgeous photo's.

     
  • At 11/12/2013 9:18 am, Blogger Helen (Grab Your Fork) said…

    Hi cquek - It's all about timing! Just jump and take the photo mid-air. It helps if you have multiple shots enabled.

     
  • At 11/12/2013 9:59 am, Anonymous missklicious said…

    Those beaches look picture perfect!

     
  • At 11/12/2013 10:42 am, Blogger Sarah said…

    What an amazing experience, and such an epic post! I love it.

    All the food looks great, but I can't stop staring at your beautiful photos of the scenery! Amazing!

     
  • At 11/12/2013 9:02 pm, Anonymous Amanda @lambsearsandhoney said…

    Looks like you get a pretty good look at this lovely spot. As for the kangaroos - the first time I went there they broke into our tent and ate most of our food!

     
  • At 11/13/2013 11:16 am, Anonymous The Hedonist Life said…

    "Nougat doughnut with saffron honey ice cream, pistachio croquant and turkish delight"

    Is there a sweeter sentence in the english language?

     
  • At 11/13/2013 12:52 pm, Anonymous ChopinandMysaucepan said…

    Dear Helen,

    I am thinking of organising a trip with a group of friends to KI and the info and photos in this blogpost just blew me away.

    You are truly one of the best if not the best food blogger in Australia. *Hats off and bows*

     
  • At 11/13/2013 2:51 pm, Anonymous ~~^Ginny~~^ said…

    Oh my I would love to see those seals one day. It's so special that you saw dolphins as well. Australia is so beautiful!

     
  • At 11/13/2013 3:35 pm, Blogger Milktea Eats said…

    omgsh the sea lions are so adorable, i just squealed out loud in the office! oops!

     
  • At 11/14/2013 1:38 am, Anonymous Daisy@Nevertoosweet said…

    Amazing post :) Love the photos, the activities and when I go to Kangaroo Island I am going to replicate everything that you do!

     
  • At 11/15/2013 8:50 pm, Anonymous sara | Belly Rumbles said…

    No kangaroos, but did they take you around to see the koala colony? It has been over 15 years since I have been to KI, and wow, it seems to have 'grown up' quite a bit. The great produce, seals and honey were there, but not the quirky cafes.

     
  • At 11/16/2013 2:23 am, Blogger CQUEK said…

    thanks, will try to jump as high as possible.. :)

     
  • At 11/17/2013 9:27 pm, Blogger Shellie said…

    HELLLEEEENNNN!! you are seriously killing me here!! I want nothing but seafood and a bounty of it RIGHT NOW!!

    oh and boo, not one single kangaroo!

     

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