Three Lanes and Seven Alleys, Haymarket Chinatown

Stinky tofu. Its infamy might precede itself but the version at the newly opened Three Lanes and Seven Alleys isn't half as scary as you'd think. Cubes of tofu have been deep-fried so they develop a golden shell. We can't detect much fermentation in the tofu cubes themselves, but the sauce on the side packs a heftier punch. It has all the hallmarks of stinky tofu, like someone left a wedge of blue cheese in a pair of old gym socks and let them sweat in the sun. It's pungent almost to the point of dizzying but somehow it's crazy addictive- you'll easily find yourself dunking those deep-fried tofu squares in the sauce to soak up every last bit of goodness.


Don't throw out those old trousers - turn them into a chair covering!

Three Lanes and Seven Alleys is named after the famous area of the same name in the capital city of Fuzhou, Fujian. There really are three lanes and seven alleys, and it remains a popular tourist attraction because of its ancient architecture dating back to the Tang dynasty (618-907AD).


Fujian fish puree soup $7

The dining room is filled with students both times I visit. Dark timbers abound and there's been some thought put into the decor, with stark white sketches of Fuzhou architecture on the black walls, and an elaborate construction of wooden beams overhead.

You'll feel like you've stumbled through a portal into China, especially when the waitstaff struggle to speak English. On our second visit, our waiter had to helplessly flag down an English-speaking colleague to take our order.

Fuzhou is particularly famous for its soups, and much of the menu is devoted to variations on soups with noodles and soups without. We were toying with the Fujian fishball soup ($7) but ended up ordering the Fujian fish puree soup instead. Actually it's not a puree at all, but small pieces of a very soft fish that possess a myriad of fine bones, some of which are dangerously forked. It's all a good laugh until a bone gets stuck in your throat. Take your time with this one. We also find the soup way too salty to drink.


Sweet potato vermicelli with pork intestines $9.80

The soup with the sweet potato vermicelli packs a chilli kick. It's a fishy, sweet and sour soup punctuated with glossy strands of starchy sweet potato noodles and a mix of pickled and fresh green vegetables. We order ours with pork intestines, well cleaned and satisfying chewy.


Fish head with chilli sauce in rice noodles $15.80

The signature rice noodles in a hot pot is what everyone's slurping. Heads are buried over these cauldron-like bowls, filled with soup and assorted fixings. The rice noodles are served on the side so you can slide them in as you please.


Fish head 

We go with the salmon fish head with chilli sauce. There's plenty of fatty salmon meat to be had if you're patient. The rice noodles are cooked to a firm al dente, and if you're still feeling hungry, you can get a follow-up serve of rice noodles for free. Now I know why all the students are into these!


Marinated beef tongue and marinated duck gizzards $9.50 for two side dishes 

There's still so much to try that I return a couple of days later with a colleague for lunch. There's a massive selection of offal cuts on offer, including beef tendons, beef tripe and pigs ear. They're all less than seven dollars but you can order a combination of two or three for cheaper.

The marinated beef tongue has been sliced thinly. It's already tender but a dunk in the accompanying black vinegar with chilli makes it sing. I pick the duck gizzards, cooked to an expert pink. They're equally good, but the vinegar really does make it so much better.


Fujian pork wontons $5 

Fujian pork wontons are a whisper of silky dough wrapped around a petite mouthful of seasoned pork mince. We find the slick of oil on top of the soup a little heavy going though.


Fujian dry noodles with peanut sauce $5 

We have to dig to the bottom of the bowl to find the peanut sauce hidden underneath a pile of Fujian dry noodles. Mix it all up with chopsticks so everything's coated evenly and relish the sauce tastes like a runny peanut butter.


Fried milk bread $6

There are steamed milk breads on the menu but they'll also deep fry them if you ask. That means golden pillows of sweet fluffiness with condensed milk on the side. The skin crisps like there's a toffee lacquer on the surface and the stark white bun on the inside is so soft you may even shed a tear. It makes for a perfect dessert, even if you do end up warring over the last bit of condensed milk - there's never enough.






Three Lanes and Seven Alleys
50 Dixon Street, Haymarket, Chinatown, Sydney
Tel: +61 (02) 9281 7770

Opening hours:
Sunday to Wednesday 12pm - 9.30pm
Thursday to Saturday 12pm - 10pm


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