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Thursday, November 12, 2009

Frogs leg congee, Siang Hee, MOS Burger and a trip to The Clinic


In the sweltering heat and humidity that is everyday Singapore, an iced coffee never looked so good.

Breakfast crowds at Tiong Bahru Market

After a long day and late night, Suze, the es&t crew and I end up at Tiong Bahru Market the next day for a mid-morning breakfast. The place is packed with locals, a hive of people eating and drinking and chatting in the sticky 75% humidity.

I'm compelled to do a lap of every hawker stall before I make my choice. Just as I always peruse a restaurant menu at least twice before ordering, I obsessively carefully deliberate over my final dining decision.

Breakfast set SG$4.80
Soft boiled eggs, kaya toast and iced coffee

Suze has gone for the breakfast set, a quiet celebration of protein, carbs and caffeine.

Soft-cooked egg yolk

I've really come to embrace the Singapore-style runny egg. Cracked into a bowl, the egg white is somewhat soupy but made palatable with a generous splash of soy and lots of white pepper. The star of the show is the egg yolk off course, a shimmering golden orb that begs to be burst open.

Kaya toast

Breakfast dessert? Kaya toast. Suze was pleased the crusts were cut off, but I found the thick toast a little dry and crumbly - more like a Melba toast. The kaya jam still had nothing on my favourite version at Hong Kong Jin Tian Roast Meat around the corner.

The es&t team have industriously gathered a little buffet on their own.

Fried chive dumplings and pink rice flour cakes stuffed with sticky rice

Pork rib and prawn mee

Frogs leg congee $8.00

The frogs leg congee is more of the more expensive breakfast options, but there's plenty of frog action in the bowl.

Frogs leg

The frog is tender and almost sweet. I've always thought that frog tastes like "fishy chicken", but here the congee acts as a soothing base of flavour, spiked with rings of green onion and crisp slices of you tiao deep-fried breadsticks.

My breakfast in brown paper

And my choice? It comes wrapped in brown paper and secured with a rubber band...

Nasi Lemak SG$2.50
from Bismillah Wan Maemunah, Stall 02-16

Nasi lemak! I was astounded that this little package cost a mere SG$2.50. A deep-fried chicken drumette, two small crispy fish, a handful of fried anchovies, omelette, coconut rice was capped off with a tasty splodge of sambal sauce. Unlike many versions of nasi lemak I've had in Sydney, I didn't find this overly oily or rich.

Dessert stall

Bo bo cha cha SG$2.00
from Tian Tian Yuan Dessert

Oh yes, ice was required and rather than have a drink, I choose an icy dessert every time! I went for the bo bo cha cha, not just because I like the name--doesn't it dance across your tongue and make you want to shake your shoulders?--but because it's another dish I've struggled to find decent versions of in Sydney-town.

The bo bo cha cha is quite a simple dish really. Cubes of taro and sweet potato are simmered slowly until tender then served with sweetened coconut milk. My bowl also included fluorescent-coloured taipoca pearls. It's quite a rich dessert with the coconut milk, but the ice helps mute the sweetness.

Delivery man with giant bamboo baskets of dumplings

Tiong Bahru Market entrance

Suze and I exit down the escalators and spend some time exploring the Tiong Bahru wet markets on the ground floor. It's a moderate-sized collection of fresh food stalls selling fruits, vegetables, meat and seafood.

Tiong Bahru Wet Markets

Chilli, bitter melon, tofu and eggplant stuffed with fish paste

Fresh seafood stall


Vegetable stall

For lunch, we join the es&t crew again and meet up with Leslie, the Singaporean food blogger from I Eat I Shoot I Post. Leslie had provided us with an address of where we were going to eat, and our taxi driver is a little concerned, wondering why he isn't taking a carload of tourists to the nearest shopping centre, but instead to a block number on Zion Road.

Block 89

We exit the taxi wondering if we've been delivered to the right address when we're finally reassured by the sight of red plastic chairs and then a smiling Leslie who is waiting for us with his entire family and his right hand man.

Siang Hee restaurant

Chef and owner Ah Yoke

Siang Hee is a small cafe restaurant that, thanks to Leslie's post, has enjoyed a surge in patronage from keen blog readers. When we arrive there's a table of women in their 40s and 50s next to us, and halfway through our meal, one of them finally leans over and says "Are you Leslie? We read your blog!"

"The food is very good and so cheap here," one of them says to me. "Seven dishes only SG$100!" she exclaims with glee.

Leslie introduces us as Sydney food bloggers and they all nod and smile knowingly, clucking with approval. It's a surreal experience - not only do they know about food blogs but they're devoted and appreciative blog readers as well.

Inside the Siang Hee kitchen

Chef and owner Ah Yoke is nervous about letting us into the kitchen. "It's so messy!" she apologises. It's not.

Kitchen condiments

Kang kong water spinach

Chillis in vinegar and soy

Ah Yoke cooking in the kitchen

Leslie is a fan of Siang Hee not only because the dishes are of high quality and cheap, but because Ah Yoke is constantly creating new dishes. "Her favourite food is deep-fried," Leslie tells us, at which point Suze perks up and says "Omigod has she tried a deep-fried Mars Bar?"

There's a funny exchange as Leslie explains the concept of deep-frying a caramel and nougat layered chocolate bar. Ah Yoke listens intently, looks puzzled, but nods with a nervous smile.

"She really wants to try it," Leslie translates.

We leave the ordering to Leslie and soon the table is littered with dishes.

Shrimp paste chicken wings

The shrimp paste chicken wings are supremely crunchy. Marinated in a mix of shrimp paste for two days, the flesh is juicy and bursting with flavour--not fishy, but salty and sweet. The crunch of the batter is earth-shattering. And there's barely a skerrick of residual oil to be seen.

Luohanguo tasty pork

The luohanguo tasty pork is like a complex version of sweet and sour pork, the sweetness coming from the luohanguo fruit.

Beans with salted egg yolks

Fresh squeaky green beans are the perfect complement to the fine crunch of minced dried prawns, served with slivers of fiery chilli.

Hotplate oyster egg

Hotplate oyster egg is the best oyster omelette I find in Singapore. The oysters are fresh and raw and delicious against the fluffy omelette.

Specialty bean curd

The food. It continues. I can barely manage a few mouthfuls of the specialty bean curd, the huge chunk of deep-fried pork knuckle and the thin slices of fish with vegetables.

Deep-fried pork knuckle

Fish with vegetables

Butter cream prawns with pumpkin sauce

This is because I've been eating the butter cream prawns with pumpkin sauce. It's a strange combination that somehow works - pillows of sweet prawns in a light crispy batter that's doused with a bright yellow sauce of pumpkin.

Garlic steamed grouper

I'm also a huge fan of the garlic steamed grouper, a whole fish that is simple but succulent.

The feast

Siang Hee owner Ah Yoke with Leslie from I Eat I Shoot I Post

Thanks Leslie for being such a great host, and Ah Yoke for an amazing meal!

Ducks drying in front of a fan for crispy skin duck

Whole ducks

Suze and I hit Orchard Road next, the massive shopping strip in Singapore Central that will defeat even the most determined shopper. The department stores are sleek and modern and huge, and there are several of these behemoth buildings. Suze and I grin like twins and head straight for Takashimaya, the Japanese department store with an outlet in Singapore.

Takashimaya centre court

The centre court of Takashimaya is filled with a rotation of discount stalls. We meander through several levels but spend most of the time in the basement food hall. Of course.

Romankan Yokohama stall inside Takashimaya Food Hall

Snack time!

It's not until you chronicle a food blogger's day out that you realise how much food is consumed!

Katsu-sando SG$3.20

The katsu-sando. It calls us.

Suze and I are drawn wordlessly to the snack cart where we make our purchase and then sit down at the tables nearby. The crumbed pork fillet has plenty of crunch, garnished with a thick slice of tomato, a curl of lettuce and squiggles of creamy mayonnaise. The bread is soft and fluffy.

Hot dog on a stick covered with french fries SG$2.20

And only an hour later, another snack. It's funny how we both catch sight of the hot dog on a stick covered with french fries at the same time. We just look at each other and nod.

Alas the hotdog looks better than it tastes. The fries are a little dry and crusty, although we did forgo the offer of sauce just so we could get a better photo!

A couple sitting next to us are intrigued, and later on we meet up with Howard and Qing who are finishing the last of theirs! Food bloggers think alike!

MOS Burger


Howard is hungry and keen to visit MOS Burger, the Japanese burger chain he has missed so much since his last trip to Japan.

MOS cheeseburger SG$3.55

Qing has the MOS cheeseburger, a thick patty of beef smothered with diced onions, tomato sauce and sandwiched in a bun with a slice of cheese.

Yakiniku rice burger $3.70

Howard takes the adventurous route and orders the yakiniku rice burger. Yes, a rice burger. We pause as he unwraps his wax paper parcel.

Yakiniku rice burger with French fries

What is a rice burger? Two discs of lukewarm rice compressed together until it forms a chewy patty of starch. It's as tasty as it sounds.

Howard's verdict

Howard's not impressed! He does admit the yakiniku is okay.

Cheeseburger SG$1.95
with small French Fries SG$1.80

After a day of non-stop snacking, I only have room for a cheeseburger. The bun is soft but not overly sweet, and there isn't too much of a heavy feeling or unpleasant aftertaste you often get from fast food burgers. The fries have a good crunch to them.

I was impressed by the range of offerings on the menu, including butterflied crumbed prawns (SG$3.30 for 5 pieces), garlic and lemon crumbed mussels (SG$3.30 for 5 pieces) and the unagi eel rice burger (SG$3.70) - only if you like rice patties, of course!

At 9.30pm there's just enough time to get back to the hotel for a nap, a quick shower and then head out again at 11.30pm to hit Clarke Quay, the snazzy strip of nightclub and bar frequented primarily by tourists.

Wheelchairs at The Clinic

Like many tourists, we end up at The Clinic purely for its gimmick value. The theme is hospitals and we collapse on the outdoor seating of wheelchairs. There are inevitable attempts at wheelchair races (strictly cracked down on by patient Clinic staff) and whilst one part of me wonders whether the use of wheelchairs trivialises their need by those that are forced to use them, Suze also points out that many locals avoid sitting in them out of superstition. Instead many sit on the hospital bed-style seating.

X-Nurse's Party shooters SG$50 for 6 syringes

Drinks are not cheap, even if they do offer novelty value. A metal pail of ice holds 6 syringes of alcoholic mixers that's packaged as an "X-Nurses Party" and sold for SG$50. The shots themselves are sweet and not particularly strong. The Sex on a Drip cocktail is served in an IV bag that's literally hooked up to an IV drip and trundled over to you so you can suck it slowly from the tube.

Ahh yes what's that tourism tagline again? Uniquely Singapore!

Grab Your Fork travelled to Singapore as a guest of Nuffnang Australia for the Asia-Pacific Blog Awards.

Don't forget that entries close tomorrow, Friday 5.30pm, for two Grab Your Fork competitions! Enter now to win a copy of Luke Nguyen's Songs of Sapa and in-season movie tickets to see The Boys Are Back.

I saw a preview screening of the movie and was really impressed with this earnest and beautifully shot film. The two sons in the film do a great job, and there's a lovely sense of Aussie larrikinism and the simple joys of childhood.

Go back to Singapore 2009 Day OneRead the next Singapore 2009 entry

Tiong Bahru Market
(Wet market on ground floor, hawker stalls up the escalators)
Corner of Lim Liak St and Seng Poh Road, Singapore
Open 7 days 7am-11pm

Siang Hee Restaurant
Block 89 Zion Road
#01-137 Singapore, S160089
Open 7 days 11am-10.30pm (closed once every three weeks on Tuesdays)
Tel: +65 9736 4067

Takashimaya Shopping Centre, Singapore
391a Orchard Road #09-00, Singapore, 238873
Open 7 days 10am-9.30pm
Tel: +65 6738 1111

MOS Burger - Ngee Ann City
391B Orchard Road #B2-32, Ngee Ann City, Singapore 238874
Open 7 days 10am-10pm
Tel: +65 6737 9906

The Clinic
Block C, The Cannery, River Valley Road #1-03
Clarke Quay, Singapore 179022
Open 7 days 5.30pm til late
Tel: +65 6887 3733
31 comments - Add some comment love

posted by Helen (Grab Your Fork) on 11/12/2009 02:14:00 am


  • At 11/12/2009 2:55 am, Blogger Yas @ hungry.digital.elf. said…

    wooooo so much good foooood!
    I didn't know Mos burger exists in Singapore. Miss that so much in Japan!

    I can handle any animals - had grilled frogs before as well as turtle (and its blood!). As long as bugs not involved... LOL

  • At 11/12/2009 5:18 am, Blogger mariko said…

    The corn dog with french fries is calling to me! Also, I LOVE the Mos Burger rice burgers! Too bad yours was icky.

  • At 11/12/2009 9:18 am, Anonymous billy@atablefortwo said…

    those MOS burgers don't look so good comparing to those in Japan though. I like them still perky and fluffy :P

    Ah Yoke sounds like the Blumenthal of the East! LOL playing different ingredients and flavourS! LOL I just love how she can take sweet n sour pork to a new level by using luohanguo! :) impressive!

  • At 11/12/2009 10:10 am, Blogger joey@forkingaroundsydney said…

    Love the breakfast set (soft boiled egg and kaya toast); who can resist a good egg? And shrimp paste fried chicken wings? I'm there! Great reviews, especially the crappy looking cheeseburger! LOL

  • At 11/12/2009 10:50 am, Anonymous Rose said…

    I only just got back from Malaysia but I want to go home again (minus the obligatory parental meetup). The Clinic looks hella creepy. Looks like you'd need insurance for how much the drinks cost, though (badum-ching).

  • At 11/12/2009 10:52 am, Anonymous Simon said…

    My god that's a mega post. Material for at least 3 if not 4 posts!

    As much as I crave a decent MOS burger, with the options available in the hawker stalls, it kind of fades into the background of consideration.

    Love how the nasi lemak was in a paper bag. I would so want to have one of those!

  • At 11/12/2009 10:54 am, Blogger Stephcookie said…

    Oh how disappointing that the rice burgers weren't awesome, they always sounded so promising! Yay for katsusando, hehe makes me think of FFichiban :)

  • At 11/12/2009 10:58 am, Anonymous g said…

    hehe the the french fries on that pluto pup tasted crusty and dry because they're not really french fries, they're croutons!

  • At 11/12/2009 11:35 am, Blogger Forager said…

    Mmm - frogs legs congee. I always lament the fact that we don't get some of the exotic types of congee here.

    Looks like you guys had a great trip!

  • At 11/12/2009 11:50 am, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    I have very fond memories of MOS Burgers from Hawaii... Teriyaki Burgers rock.

  • At 11/12/2009 12:16 pm, Anonymous clekitty said…

    OMG what a feast! 7 dishes for less than 100SGD? talk about a bargain!

  • At 11/12/2009 12:34 pm, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    Very well done for having so much good food for such a short period :) I love the fork leg congee. Pleaseeeeeeeee let me know if you find a place in Sydney that offer this dish :)

  • At 11/12/2009 12:35 pm, Blogger Unknown said…

    Oysters Omlette ? I'd like to taste that ...had a Lobster Omlette in San Francisco once ... it cost! Looking forward to a syringe or 6 at the Clinic one day

  • At 11/12/2009 1:33 pm, Anonymous Linda said…

    wow! u did all that in a couple of days? definitely a very thorough researcher =D

  • At 11/12/2009 5:30 pm, Blogger Unknown said…

    So after your Adrian Zumbo/macaroons post made my eyeballs giddy, you post from Singapore with your butter cream prawns and epic feast. BRB - salivating. That hotdog/fries on a stick looks hardcore, pity it didn't taste as nice. And OMGOSH rambutan!

    I can't imagine how much work it would take to maintain a blog like this for so long - I've been loving your work for a few years now!! =]

  • At 11/12/2009 5:31 pm, Anonymous Leona said…

    Beautiful photos as always helen.

    oh my godddddddddddddddd..
    did you guys get sick of eating Asian food hwile you were there? Far out you guys had a feast almost every day which is super cool.

    Love the photo of the runny egg yolk makes me want to suck it up and the interesting frogs legs congee.. been so long since I last ate frogs legs.

  • At 11/12/2009 5:35 pm, Anonymous Julian Davis said…

    Wow u got a collection of different variety foods. Great job. I really love all the post in your blog .

  • At 11/12/2009 6:39 pm, Anonymous Jacq said…

    The food at Siang Hee looks absolutely delicious, especially the butter cream prawns! If I ever go to Singapore again I'll have to stop by. The clinic definitely is 'unique'! too bad you can't wheelchair race =P

  • At 11/12/2009 11:53 pm, Anonymous chocolatesuze said…

    geez epic post dude! and oh man look at that perfect egg yolk! i miss the kaya toast and haha feel like eating a deep fried mars bar now..

  • At 11/13/2009 12:22 am, Anonymous Norman said…

    the hawker stall lap to checkout the vibe is essential! It is so true, it is like browsing the menu at any restaurant. MOS burger looked a bit disappointing when compare to the original. Good call Howard!

  • At 11/13/2009 12:28 am, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    it is interesting how in SG the steamed fish is usually split open in the middle while in Sydney (or HK) they are usually kept whole and unsplit.... wonder what's the secret behind it?

  • At 11/13/2009 12:38 am, Anonymous dea said…

    i've been silently reading your blog for a while and just had to comment on a singapore post, being from singapore. i'm stoked to see tiong bahru food centre simply because it's one of my favourites! i love the prawn noodle soup, and char siew pau there, amongst many other delicious eats.

  • At 11/13/2009 2:12 am, Blogger Helen (Grab Your Fork) said…

    Hi Yas - I was really impressed by both MOS Burger and Takashimaya having a presence in Singapore. I wish we could have them here!

    And I will give anything a go but yes, still yet to become a big fan of frog or rabbit. As for bugs - I really want to try ants and grasshoppers!

    Hi Mariko - Hmm I wonder if rice burgers are an acquired taste? Or maybe we were too hung up on the concept of a bread burger? It's an interesting idea though - presumably a good option for those with a gluten intolerance?

    Hi Billy - Yes Howard did notice that our burgers looked a little squashed. "Where is the love?" I think was his quote!

    Ah Yoke was lovely. She had so much energy and was filled with enthusiasm. An inspiration to us all.

    Hi Joey - I would love to find a recipe for the shrimp paste fried chicken wings. They were amazing. Glad you enjoyed the post, and you're right - who can resist a good egg!

    Hi Rose - Ha, obligatory parental meet-ups can be a drag but hopefully you got a few banquets along the way too :)

    The Clinic was weird but alluring, and yes, I confess I was curious to see what it was like to sit in a wheelchair.

    Hi Simon - I told you I have obsessive photographic disorder. I could've broken up the post but then I'd be blogging about Singapore until 2010 - lol.

    The hawker stalls were my happy place but after a day of shopping, the group consensus was MOS burger.

    The paper bag was so cute - I love its practicality and cheapness. The nasi lemak itself was amazing too.

    Hi Stephcookie - Haha, I immediately thought of FFichiban when I saw the katsusando. lol. And I think rice burgers sound more interesting than they are - unless of course they came as crispy deep-fried sticky rice cakes? Mmm....

    Hi G - They had the texture of croutons but they were definitely french fries :) It's quite a popular street snack in Korea but a shame that ours tasted dry :(

    Hi Forager - I agree, would be great to have more varieties of congee available here. The trip was amazing - good cheap food and fantastic company to share it with!

    Hi MissDissent - Mmm teriyaki burgers. Did you try a spam burger too? I love how in Hawaii you can get spam sushi. Brilliant!

    Hi Clekitty - The prices in Singapore made you delirious, especially with the current exchange rate. Food was also so fresh and tasty too!

    Hi Ellie - Haha, yes, we were eating non-stop and still I was cursing myself that I couldn't fit in more. Will let you know if I ever find frogs leg congee. Promise :)

    Hi Peter Konnecke - The oyster omelette was so delicious. Have never tried a lobster omelette though!

    Hi Linda - We did all that in ONE day. Yes, we're a little bit crazy. Haha.

  • At 11/13/2009 2:12 am, Blogger Helen (Grab Your Fork) said…

    Hi Margaret Tran - Thank you so much for you comment and very kind words. Maintaining a blog does take time and commitment but it's comments like yours that make it all worth it! :) So glad to hear you've been a long-time reader - hope that Grab Your Fork continues to entertain and whet your appetite!

    Hi Leona - No I didn't get sick of Asian food, although perhaps I would after about 10 days! Our Singapore trip was a non-stop feast.

    Runny eggs are my new addiction. I agree, you don't often see frogs legs on menus in Sydney.

    Hi Julian Davis - Glad you enjoyed the post!

    Hi Jacq - The boys tried several times to do a wheelchair race although I can understand the staff's attentiveness, especially when alcohol has been involved!

    Siang Hee was a real gem. Goes to show that food bloggers can often be counted on to highlight the best hidden suburban eats!

    Hi Chocolatesuze - Epic indeed. I think it does more accurately reflect how much we ate though (not sure if that's a good or a bad thing!). I miss kaya too, and lol, I wonder if Ah Yoke has managed to deep fry a Mars Bar yet? We should send her some!

    Hi Norman - Haha, making my meal decision is always a slow and deliberate process. The MOS burger weren't as "perky" as the versions we'd seen in Japan and poor Howard, he really was gutted about his rice burger!

    Hi Anon - A very good observation. I wonder if it relates to the type of fish that's steamed?

    Hi Dea - Oh thank you for delurking yourself and congratulations on making your first comment! Tiong Bahru was a great spot and I didn't at first realise how lucky we were to be staying so close to it.

    Glad the post struck a chord with you. I agree, so many delicious dishes to be eaten. Happy you made your first comment - would love to hear more from you :) Comments really do make my day :)

  • At 11/13/2009 11:11 am, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    Spooky! You've found lots of the places we visit when we travel to Singapore - a real insider's view. Tiong Bahru, Zion Rd, and Sin Hoi Sai from your previous post, which is a great seafood place especially the black pepper crab!!! Please keep Sin Hoi Sai just between you and me, eh? (The less publicity the better!) But you lose me when you get to Orchard Rd and Clarke Quay - why bother with overpriced westernised stuff when the local food/drink is so fantastic and great value! The only problem is that you start struggling a little after three or four days of five meals a day!

  • At 11/13/2009 12:06 pm, Anonymous penny aka jeroxie said…

    Reading all these posts in Singapore just makes me so homesick now :(
    And yay to MOS burger! I had it since I was in college and always go back to it when Im back. The milk is awesome too!

  • At 11/13/2009 2:19 pm, Anonymous Arwen from Hoglet K said…

    Riceburgers?! There's got to be a market of coeliacs who need a gluten free burger like this, but only if they taste good.

  • At 11/14/2009 10:13 pm, Anonymous kay said…

    wow helen so many dishes... yummy!! ive been to the clinic as well its a unique and weird concept though hehe.. didn't really wanna sit on the wheelchairs hehe.. and hotdog on fries.. whoa! id be putting ketchup all over that thing haha

  • At 11/15/2009 4:09 pm, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    I'm from Sydney but have been living in Singapore for a couple of years, just down the road from TBM actually. I'm suprised Leslie didn't get you to try the lor mee there, it's quite famous and damn shiok.

  • At 11/16/2009 1:28 pm, Anonymous J2Kfm said…

    an interesting post, a chronology of your run in S'pore. it's good thing to know the local food blogger in S'pore, esp someone of Leslie's stature. Siang Hee sounds like some place the locals would visit for lunch on a daily basis.

  • At 11/16/2009 7:23 pm, Blogger Helen (Grab Your Fork) said…

    Hi Stan - I agree, the cheap local food is always my point of focus, however given we were travelling with friends it seemed inevitable we'd end up at Clarke Quay to unwind with several (pricey) drinks!

    The humidity was a drain on our energy but more disappointingly, it did affect the appetite :(

    Hi Penny - It was fun to revisit MOS Burger and yes, I love how Asian restaurants often include milk as an option. If only more Sydney fast food chains did the same thing!

    Hi Arwen - The rice burgers are an interesting concept. I guess you would have to really like rice (obviously) but perhaps someone bold enough will introduce them to Sydney soon!

    Hi Kay - The Clinic was crazy and hence a must-do. I think our hot dog definitely needed tomato sauce - the things we do for a good photo!

    Hi Anon - I think Howard did order the lor mee one day. I'll have to get that next times I'm there!

    Hi J2Kfm - Siang Hee was a great find. Who would've thought you'd find such a great little eatery hidden at the base of an apartment block?


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