Spice Temple, Sydney

Riesling, says Peter Barry, introduced thousands of Australian teenagers to wine. The sweetness of riesling makes them very drinkable for youth, and Peter appears to puff his chest proudly when he theorises that for many of us, rieslings are the first wine we will ever drink, sneaking a sip from our parents' glass.

Today I'm at Spice Temple, attending the national media lunch hosted by Jim Barry Wines, from the Clare Valley in South Australia. Peter Barry now heads the company built by his late father Jim in 1959.

Originally Jim Barry started off growing sherry grapes in the Clare Vineyard, but soon switched to riesling. The media lunch includes a ten-course degustation from Spice Temple matched with rieslings from Jim Barry Wines.

Cucumber with smashed garlic and ginger

The dishes, we are told, have been toned down slightly in spice so as to match the sweetness of the rieslings. At the start, we'd sipped on the 2010 Lodge Hill Dry Riesling before moving onto 2010 Watervale Reisling and the newly relaunched 2010 Lavender Hill Sweet Riesling with our first set of dishes.

Tingling prawns

Lighter fruitier wines tend to suit Asian cuisines and we find the rieslings slip down well. Pickled cucumber spears doused in ginger and garlic whet the appetite as we move onto an impressive dish of tingling prawns, liberally sprinkled with tongue-numbing Szeuchuan pepper. The prawns are sensationally fresh too, tender and fragrant.

Tea smoked duck breast with pickled cabbage and Chinese mustard

Tea smoked duck breast is enough to get me all hot and bothered with its rich smoky flavour, thick ribbon of luscious fat and velvety smoothness on the tongue. Each dish is presented to share between four people, but I could have easily eaten this entire plate on my own.

Fried squid with whole five spice and dark chilli paste

Our next set of share dishes includes tender pieces of fried squid dusted in five spice powder. A squeeze of fresh lime adds some zing. We also begin an interesting journey through the vintages of Florita Reisling, starting with 2010 and concluding at the year 2004.

Crisp pork belly and smoked tofu with spicy ginger and garlic dressing

Crisp pork belly comes with tantalising slivers of crackling, and I find the thin slices of smoked tofu rather addictive too.

The younger rieslings are bright and fresh on the palate, and full of citrus. We do notice their sweetness is muted once we start eating.

Hot and fragrant prawns

Our next two dishes comes with tastings of the 2008, 2007 and 2005 Florita Rieslings. As rieslings age, they take on toast and honey characteristics. I'm an instant fan of the 2005 vintage which is noticeably mellower and smoother, but still boasts a crisp finish.

Hot and fragrant prawns are a simple stirfry with chilli, but it's the garlic shoots I'm more enamoured by, slim tender stalks that are delicately sweet.

Steamed flathead Jiangxi style

Steamed flathead fillets are cooked to fork-flaking perfection, topped with a spicy pickle of chopped mustard greens and doused with a sesame soy dressing.

Spanner crab congee

The spanner crab congee is decadent with crab and prawns, but I find its texture more akin to a chowder than a congee. Congee is usually a textural rice porridge that is thick with cooked and swollen rice grains, whereas I find only a few grains in the bottom of the bowl.

The congee is paired with the 2010 Lavender Hill Sweet Riesling which tastes almost toffee-like in sweetness, especially against the subtlety of the congee.

Steamed rice

Shredded duck, dried chestnuts and black fungi with Pixian chilli paste and fried tofu

Our final series of savoury dishes was matched with the 2004 Florita Riesling, 2002 Watervale Riesling and 1999 Lodge Hill Dry Riesling (hic!).

Shredded duck had a mild background nuance of chilli, but wasn't as fatty as I expected, and I was rather disappointed with the hot, sweet, sour and numbing pork which seemed devoid of heat. The pork was thick was batter and sticky with maltose - presumably this was toned down to match the rieslings but I really wanted to try this dish at its numbing best!

Hot, sweet, sour and numbing pork

Steamed king abalone mushroom, garlic stem, chives and ginger

Steamed king abalone mushrooms were huge in size, and almost meaty in consistency. We detected alcohol in the sauce which we presume was Shaoxing wine.

Watermelon granita

Our tastebuds weren't terribly numb but the dessert of watermelon granita was still a welcome palate cleanser. This was a beautifully simple dessert, the soft crystals of watermelon ice studded with small chunks of fresh frozen watermelon.

Spice Temple dining room

The Spice Girls

And yes, I found the Spice Girls! I'd always remembered Simon Thomsen's review on Spice Temple, which included a mention of the Asian female portraits that line one dining room wall. They are, Simon says "no doubt meant to add exotic sensuality but seem a little too much like a male fantasy of mail-order brides."

We were seated in the adjacent dining room so I didn't have their bedroom eyes imploring me to "come hither" during lunch. I find them an odd inclusion in a fine dining restaurant, even if the Spice Temple basement location does create the feel of a gentleman's club when you first enter. The only spice I'm looking for is best served on my plate.

Grab Your Fork attended the Jim Barry Wines national media lunch as a guest of Jim Barry Wines. 


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Spice Temple

10 Bligh Street, Sydney

Tel: +61 (02) 8078 1888

Opening hours:

Open Monday to Saturday 6pm-10pm

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Baroque Bistro, The Rocks, Sydney

I'll admit it. We ended up at Baroque Bistro lured mostly by the promise of dessert.  We'd taken the selection of venues quite seriously - I'd even knocked up an online survey with a shortlist of options - and when the votes came in, the sweet tooths won with an overwhelming majority in favour of combining a bistro lunch with a patisserie finish.

Fresh baguettes

The last time I'd been here, it was in the kitchen for the macaron masterclass. We press our noses up against the display counter of desserts as we enter, but we move on quickly to the dining room: today we're all about sitting back and eating well.

Pastry chef

Extra virgin olive oil macarons




Pompadour raspberry and passionfruit mousse with pine nut nougatine and almond sponge


Baroque dining room

Locals and tourists looking for a quick cup of a coffee or a casual bite to eat tend to sit at the tables outside, ideal when the sun is shining like today. Inside the dining room is split into two areas, the first section facing the kitchen, the second accessed by a narrow doorway of exposed brick.

The inner dining room is super shiny with hanging copper light fittings reminiscent of the 1970s, and a metallic feature wall that creates multiple reflections. Curved booth seating along one wall is cosy for couples, but they miss out on glimpses of the Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Opera House behind them.

There are no tablecloths to be seen, but the rose pink acrylic chairs and polished wine glasses create an distinct contrast against the rough and raw walls and metal pipes overhead. What the dining room does have is an abundance of natural light, filling the space with warmth and energy.


Roasted baby beetroot, goats curd, candied walnuts and cumin-infused orange $17

We're a group of six today and we manage to cover most of the menu with minimal overlap. Our dishes arrive neatly together, and are plated in an impressive fashion that prompts head-swivelling comparisons.

The roasted baby beetroot is a blackboard special, the segments of cumin-infused orange cloaked in a dramatic mist of dry ice (faintly visible in the shot above). The earthiness of baby beetroot pairs well with the candied walnuts, scattered around a curving trail of creamy goats curd.


Fricassé of calamari, saffron cracker and crab cream $19

Fricassé de calamares, croquant au saffran, crème de crabes

The fricasse of calamari takes everyone by surprise with its appearance, but the nubbins of calamari pieces are tender albeit fiddly to eat. By this stage we're swapping plates left, right and centre for maximum tastings, and I'm quite taken by the saffron cracker which is crisp and fragrant. 

Scallops a la plancha, sweet corn, lime, roast onion, foie cream $20

Coquilles St Jacques à la plancha, maïs, citron vert, oignon rôti, crème de foie gras

The classic Coquilles St Jacques is livened in this version with kernels of sweet corn. Fat discs of seared scallops are played off against puddles of foie cream and caramelised curls of roasted onion.

Confit Bangalow pork neck, mussel and lovage emulsion, garlic, charred leek $16

Confit de porc Bangalow, émulsion de moules avec ache de montagne, poireaux brulés

I'd ordered the confit of Bangalow pork neck, and though the flesh is fatty and tender, I'm more enamoured by the baby leeks, split down the middle and charred on one side. They're sweet and smoky, and I eat the entire vegetable brush with glee. And could there be a more evocative-sounding sauce than a mussel and lovage emulsion?

One hour organic hens egg, whipped potato and prosciutto $16

Oeuf bio confit, pomme de terre au siphon, prosciutto

The dish which got everyone all hot and bothered, however, was the one hour organic hens egg. A tentative prod with a fork bursts forth a splash of perfectly runny golden yolk. A ring of whipped potato is buttery rich and silky smooth.

The open kitchen

Mincing beef for the steak tartare

Dish of the day: Steak tartare with chips $25

Plat du jour: Steak tartare, frites

A wander past the open kitchen had given me a preview of the preparation behind my main, the steak tartare. It arrives like a small turret, garnished with micro leaves and topped with an egg yolk still in its shell. Tipping the egg yolk onto the meat isn't a problem, but having a leftover shell with nowhere to put it feels a little awkward, particularly when I'm trying to mix everything altogether on my plate.

The tartare is a little fatty and over-seasoned with capers for my liking, and I'm left reminiscing about the admittedly much more expensive version I still dream about at the now defunct Forty One.

300 day pure Angus flank steak, cauliflower, thyme emulsion, truffle powder $30

Bavette, choufleur, émulsion de thym truffe en poudre

We take turns dipping our forks into dishes that run through beef, duck and seafood. Slices of Angus flank steak pair well with roasted cauliflower, made fancier with smithereens of frozen truffle snow.

Tea smoked duck breast, mushroom, creamed corn, watercress, rye $33

Magret de canard fumé au thé, champignon, crème de mais, cresson, seigle

Tea smoked duck breast is disappointingly mild in smokiness but cooked to a luscious and juicy shade of pink.

Grilled yellow eye mullet, puy lentils, olive, grilled fennel, bacon vinaigrette $29

Mulet grillé, lentilles du puy, olives, fenouil grillé, vinaigrette aux lardons

Grilled yellow eye mullet is also cooked well, served with roasted spears of heirloom carrots in purple and orange.

Braised octopus, compressed cucumber, saffron new potato, olive, verbena $32

Poulpe braisé, concombre sous vide, pommes de terre nouvelles au saffron, olive, verveine

The thick tentacles of braised octopus receive mixed reports on tenderness, depending on their width, and the olive glaze on the side is a little overpowering. Saffron-boiled potatoes provide a striking contrast in colour but the potato galette, although pretty to look at, are soft and chewy.

Creamy Paris mash $9

Purée de pommes de terre

For sides, we share the green beans in garlic butter ($9) and the creamy Paris mash, served in an ever-so-cute Staub La Cocotte miniature cast iron pot. The Paris mash is gloriously sticky, a thick puree that is generous with butter.

Looking into the second dining room

Macarons

Perhaps it was my photo-taking, or maybe it was due to our large group happily ploughing through a three-course lunch, but our table is presented with a complimentary plate of macarons. The thin crisp shells give way to soft ganache-filled centres. The salted caramel macaron is still my favourite.

Vanilla crème brulée, pistachio ice cream $16

Crème brulée à la vanille, glace á la pistache

It's amazing how egg yolks, sugar and cream can have such a hold on so many women. The vanilla creme brulee arrives in a shallow dish, a rink of brittle toffee protecting a layer of silky custard. A scoop of pistachio ice cream on the side is overwhelmingly strong in flavour, and probably unnecessary against the simple elegance of the creme brulee.

Valrhona chocolate tart, peanut butter, roast banana ice cream $16

Tartelette au chocolat Valrhona, beurre de cacahuètes, glace aux bananes rôties

I'd ordered the Valrhona chocolate tart, another surprise interpretation that is not the baked version I'd expected. A foamy layer of chocolate mousse is draped over a tart shell, but I have more fun with the mix of powders on the side. Delicate crystals of peanut snow melt instantly on the tongue whereas chocolate-covered pop rocks take their time to explode and create havoc against the roof of my mouth. Roast banana ice cream has the subtle taste of fresh banana and finding peanuts covered in gold dust is like discovering buried treasure.

Stone fruit compote, elderflower granite, yoghurt sorbet $16

Compote de fruits à noyeau, granité fleurs de sureau, sorbet au yaourt

Stone fruit compote looks and tastes so healthy, it feels more like breakfast than dessert. Yoghurt sorbet has a welcome tang and the elderflower granita is cool and refreshing.

White peach and almond soufflé, peach sorbet, cats tongues $16

Souffle aux pêches blanches et amandes, langues de chat

The most spectacular dessert would have to be the white peach and almond souffle, jauntily rising above the constraints of its ramekin prison. The souffle is light and airy and generously served with a scoop of peach sorbet, macaron, two cats tongues and a decadent dusting of gold feulletine.


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Baroque Bistro

88 George Street, The Rocks

(corner of Hickson Road)

Tel: +61 (02) 9241 4811

Opening hours:

Lunch Monday to Sunday 12pm - 3pm

Dinner Monday to Saturday 6pm - 10.30pm

Patisserie menu Monday to Saturday 12pm - late, Sunday 12pm-4.30pm

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Au Lac Vegetarian Restaurant, Dickson, Canberra

It looks like roast duck, doesn't it? We lean in closer and admire the golden crackle of thin crisp skin, marvelling at its beauty, because guess what, this dish is completely vegetarian.

I'd been drawn to Au Lac not just for its entirely vegetarian Vietnamese menu, but for its reputation at creating mock meat dishes. The idea of vegetarians eating mock meat may sound a little ironic but theories abound that mock meat was first developed by Buddhist monks to serve to visitors who were not necessarily vegetarian. The visitors could enjoy a "normal" looking meal of meat and vegetables without the monks breaking their beliefs.

Inside Au Lac

We find Au Lac in Woolley Street, Dickson - Canberra's Chinatown located just north of the city centre. The restaurant is humble in decor, neatly set out with clean but dated furniture, and dotted throughout with bamboo ferns. There are couples, groups of friends, and yes, a serene monk in saffron robes who greets the owners with a warm handshake and a smile.

Vietnamese cannelloni $12

Banh Cuon

We start with a menu item called Vietnamese cannelloni that arrives as banh cuon. Traditionally these soft sheets of steamed rice noodles are swaddled around a filling of pork mince and minced wood ear mushroom. Here the meat has been replaced with soy meat, and the dried prawns that are usually on top have been substituted with flaky shreds of mushroom floss.

Soy meat is made by processing soy beans to extract the proteins, and combining this with wheat gluten to create a faux meat substitute. This entree provides an easy transition to the world of soy meat, and we savour the noodle parcels with splashes of sweet chill dressing.


Coconut juice $3.50

Nuoc Dua Tuoi

Paw paw salad $10

Goi Du Du

The paw paw salad is made with soy squid, refreshing shreds of daikon, carrot and mint mixed with thin sheets of fried soy meat. It doesn't taste much like squid, but the soy meat has a satisfying jerky-like chewiness.

Large Au Lac sweet and sour soup $14

Canh Chua Bap Chuoi

Canh chua is a sweet and sour soup usually served with fatty chunks of silver perch. Ours is a feast of tomatoes, pineapple, enoki mushrooms and oyster mushrooms, and it arrives in a huge glass bowl that could double as a bath.


Au Lac broken rice $13

Com dac biet, or special rice, is a mainstay of Vietnamese restaurants that is often ordered by men looking for a supreme protein hit. It's an all-in-one meal of grilled pork chop, shredded pork, baked egg, fried egg, tomato and cucumber served with broken rice. The Au Lac version replaces the pork chop with marinated and grilled soy meat. Shredded tofu looks eerily similar to pork meat too.

The faux pork chop does feel a little springy but aside from the missing pork chop bone, I reckon you could easily fool a few carnivores with this dish.

Roast soy duck $14

Vit Quay

The roast soy duck is by far the most impressive dish. Mr Manchego doesn't believe it's vegetarian, and is convinced they've let a meat dish out of the kitchen.

I pick up a piece and admire its construction. On top is a shell of glazed crispy skin but I'm taken aback by the construction beneath, starting with a creamy layer that looks like duck fat, and then continuing with distinct and separate layers that mimic the contours of a genuine duck breast.

The first mouthful is incredible, the mind fooled by the sight and texture of the "meat". By the fourth piece you can tell it's not really duck, but I still want more, no doubt buoyed by an addiction to the sweet and crunchy skin.

By the end of the dinner we feel satiated and buzzing with protein, as though we've eaten a dinner that did include meat. The only butchering we did that night was a heavy session of karaoke across the road.




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Au Lac Gourmet Vegetarian Restaurant

4/35-39 Woolley Street, Dickson, Canberra

Tel: +61 (02) 6262 8922

Opening hours:

Lunch Tuesday to Sunday 11.30am - 2.30pm

Dinner Monday to Sunday 5.30pm-10.30pm

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