Billingsgate Fish Bistro, Randwick

EDIT July 2006: Matthew Kemp and Lela Radojkovic have closed Billingsgate Fish Bistro and re-opened the premises as Two Rooms, a European-inspired restaurant.

There's little doubt that Matthew Kemp is red hot at the moment. Exploding across our TV screens in the recent SBS doco Heat in the Kitchen, Matthew may be notorious for his fiery temper (threatening to sack his maitre'd if she wasn't his wife!) but he's also enviably talented.

In addition to their recently double-hatted Restaurant Balzac, Matthew and his wife, Lela Radojkovic, also own Billingsgate Fish Bistro--surely a sign of being perennial suckers for punishment.

I headed to Billingsgate last Sunday with Saffron and friends for Billingsgate's first-ever seven-course degustation. Lela was a gracious welcoming host, Matthew was spotted in the kitchen, and the food was intriguing, exciting and plated with finesse.


Hors d'oeuvre
Sardine-stuffed zucchini flower, oyster deepfried with truffle
and papillote of trout with cucumber and potato


Merlan Doria
Whiting with cucumber spaghetti on a buerre banc with
school prawns, cucumber boats, chervil and a
Riesling cappucino, topped with Iranian caviar

Wine: 2004 Lalla Gully Riesling, Tasmania, Australia


Lapin Raifort Et Croseille
Deboned saddle of rabbit rolled with rabbit loin and served with
a tower of potato with horseradish, rabbit shoulder and port
topped with rabbit kidney and broadbeans

Wine: 2004 Koyong Chardonnay, Victoria, Australia


Escargots fried with garlic then put back in shell, topped
with garlic crumbs and baked for twenty minutes
(Optional course)


Rouget a la Bordelaise
Mullet with red wine jus served with oxtail and discs
of bone marrow

Wine: 2003 George Duboeuf, Beaujolais, France


Chevreuil a la Berrichonne
Venison served with Corella pears poached in spiced red wine
and slices of celeriac

Served with chestnut brussel sprouts (not pictured).

Wine: 2003 Roundhouse Pinot, Victoria, Australia


Cheese platter with (clockwise from bottom left)
slices of apple, a French blue Rochebaron,
Tarago washed rind from the Gippsland region,
vintage Tasmanian cheddar, and a
vacherin-style French fougerous brie.
(Optional course)


Fraise Sarah Bernardt
Strawberries mascerated in orange curacao served on
a pineapple granita

Wine: 2003 Plantagenet Chenin Blanc, Western Australia, Australia


Peche Melba
Poached peaches on a disc of vanilla bean ice cream
with raspberry coulis and fresh raspberries


My favourite dishes were definitely the venison which practically melted in the mouth, and the deep-fried oyster which was divine as well.

The bone marrow was fascinatingly pale with pink streaks, obviously removed from the bone whilst still raw. Pure cholesterol at its finest, this was artery-cloggingly rich, even for me the marrow-lovin' gal.

I enjoyed the rabbit which surprised me, as I tend to find rabbit a little too gamey. But this was light and delicate and the rabbit kidneys were delicious too, in spite of their morbidly cute appearance (especially with its synchronicity of shape with the broadbeans).

A bonanza of flavours, textures and pairings, it's taken me a few days to mentally digest our meal. I'm still thinking about it. Isn't that always a good sign of a successful degustation?

Billingsgate Fish Bistro (CLOSED)
38-40 Pauls St, Randwick, Sydney
Tel: 02 9398 1011

This was Billingsgate's first-ever degustation for what is likely to be regular monthly event (third Sunday of every month).

7 course degustation $65, or $90 with matching wines.
Snail option: $6
Cheese plate option: $10

Degustation dinners can also be arranged for private groups upon request.