Ribs. I love ribs. I love people who love ribs.
It's about marinated meat cooked over charcoal. About burnt edges that have caramelised to a delicious sweet crunch. It's about the juiciness of cooking on bone. About scraping off every morsel with the edge of your teeth. About getting your fingers dirty.
Rib lovers understand.
Mediterranean salad $17.00
Mixed fresh leaves, olives, fetta cheese, spanish onion,
cucumber, tomato, capsicum and Mediterranean dressing
And so we've ended up at Hurricane's Grill in Bondi, a huge dining room filled with the smell of charring meat and stooped diners huddled over caramelised carcasses.
Pork ribs full rack with chips $30.00
Whenever I'd spoken with rib lovers in Sydney, Hurricane's Grill had always been spoken of in breathy reverent tones. I had high expections and thankfully, they were fulfilled.
The pork ribs are fantastic. The flesh is tender, fall-off-the-bone and marinated long enough to sustain the tastebuds. I'm pleased, too, that the marinade is without the tomato-ey tang of its American cousin. These taste only of smoky barbecue sauce, and they've been cooked beautifully to a caramelised finish.
The full rack is a feast for a king, and yep, yours truly polished off every single one of them.
Lamb ribs full rack with chips $30.00
The lamb ribs aren't as tender, and the strong smell of lamb is rather all-pervading, but the portion of chips is generous, and a small pot of tomato sauce is provided once we ask.
Our salads (mixed Mediterranean $17 and a mixed fresh garden salad $15) arrive in huge cavernous bowls, both disconcertingly garnished with tufts of alfalfa, about as subtle and attractive as an ill-fitting toupe. The fetta is disappointingly bland and soapy in texture but then again, you don't come to Hurricane's for the salad; you come for the ribs, and those will leave you in definite smiles of carnivorous satiation and finger-licking happiness.
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130 Roscoe Street (near corner of Gould Street)
Bondi Beach, Sydney
Tel: +61 (02) 9130 7101
This has been included as an Intrepid Eat on Grab Your Fork's Top 10 Sydney Eats for Tourists. Read the entire list here.
Open 7 nights for dinner 6.00pm till late
Lunch on Sundays from 12pm
Hurricane's Express Takeaway
Tel: +61 (02) 9365 3450
Open 7 days 12.00pm till 10.00pm
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10/03/2007 07:03:00 p.m.