Ayam Goreng 99, Kingsford

Gado gado $7.50
Steamed mixed salad with belacan and peanut sauce

There's a fantastic sense of energy that pulsates on Anzac Parade, a night-time buzz that reminds me a little of the hustle bustle of Hong Kong and other Asian cities that thrive at night.

The convenience stores are all open, the footpath has a steady hum of pedestrian traffic, and each restaurant seems packed with the happy clatter of diners. There's a proliferation of Indonesia restaurants here, although we also spot Chinese, Taiwanese and a couple of Thai places too.

The bright lights lead me to Ayam Goreng 99, a cheap and cheerful hawker-style eatery that the G-man swears does some of the most authentic Indonesian food in Sydney.


Pepes jamur $4.00
Mushroom blended with spices, roasted in banana leaves

Everything here is low-key and do-it-yourself, even the ordering process. It's not until the G-man arrives that I realise each table is supposed to consult the laminate menu and write down their own order, using the long skinny notepads and pencils provided. A nominated runner from your party must then traverse the dining room and present the docket to the kitchen. Why hire extra waiters when your own customers have a perfectly good set of legs, hey?


Cendol Es $4.00
Green jelly with palm sugar and coconut milk

We hand around chopsticks, spoons and tissues from the communal supply on our table and dig into our dishes that arrive sporadically and in a haphazard order from the kitchen.


Duren Es $5.50
Fresh durian with shaved ice and condensed milk

My durian iced drink arrives to the wary attention of my colleagues, some of whom cannot fathom its aromatic allure. There's a huge iceberg of compacted ice to get past, but at the bottom is a muddle of soft and sweet chunky durian segments. It's everything a durian lover could hope for, and before long the table is enveloped in its aroma.

The non-durian appreciaters stick to the cendol ice, a layered refreshing drink of palm sugar syrup, coconut milk, ice and a tangle of flavourless but brightly coloured green starch noodles.


Ayam Goreng (deep-fried marinated chicken) and
Ayam Bakar (charcoal grilled marinated chicken)
Choice of dada (breast) or paha (thigh) $5.00 per piece

It's the chicken that brings most punters to Ayam Goreng 99. We order both the ayam goreng (deep-fried marinated chicken) and the ayam bakar (charcoal grilled marinated chicken). To my surprise I find myself prefering the ayam bakar grilled version, which is a little bit moister than the thighs that have been deep-fried. The smoky charcoal also seems to add extra flavour.


Cah kangkung $8.00
Stir-fried onchoy with belacan, chilli and garlic

Cah kangkung is a happy jumble of green water spinach flash-fried with belacan shrimp paste, chilli and garlic. The gado gado seems a touch soggy with a thin and too-sweet peanut sauce.

Pepes jamur is a dramatic banana leaf parcel of mushroom slices cooked with chilli and spices. It's the first time I've tried pepes before and although it's a pretty presentation, I can't help finding myself craving a more smoky and robust flavour, like that imparted to the fish paste in otak otak.


Nasi uduk $3.00
Coconut steamed rice

Coconut steamed rice is always a decandent treat. The rice is fluffy and sweet, topped with a garnish of deep-fried red onion shallots.


Soto asam $4.00
Sour vegetable soup

A bowl of soto asam soup is rich with the flavour of prawn, a bright orange colour that is a powerful combination of hot and sour.

Meanwhile the chicken is so good we order another round for the table. It's just as good the second time.



Ayam Goreng 99
464 Anzac Parade, Kingsford, Sydney
(nearest cross-street: Middle Street)
Tel: +61 (02) 9697 0030

Open Wednesday - Sunday
Lunch: 11.30am-4.00pm
Dinner: 6.00pm - 9.00pm

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