Kabuki Shoroku, Sydney

Premium wagyu marbled beef grilled on a hot rock $32

I know I'm a big kid at heart. That's why, even whilst I'm drooling a the sight of the fat-speckled slices of wagyu beef, I'm probably more excited at the prospect of cooking it on a rock.



And yet, Kabuki Shoroku is not really a restaurant for kids. It's a small and cosy eatery hidden within St Martins Tower, only a few doors up from Becasse. The element of secrecy continues at the entrance - the pebbled pathway requires a touch of balance as you step your way along the large polished stones, whilst a smiling waitress holds aside the curtain for you to enter the hushed and quiet dining room.

There's a sense of Zen-like tranquility and sombreness in the decor: dark wood, a gleaming granite countertop and kabuki masks mounted on the walls. A few ambient touches like bamboo plants and flickering candles warm the room, although it does feel very much like a "date night" restaurant, a dinner destination for intimate couples rather than rowdy friends.



Deepwaterdude and I are definitely not on a date, but we are on a hunt for amazing Japanese food.


Beef tataki $10
Australian beef eye fillet sashimi

The beef tataki arrives as five plump slices of rare beef served in the prettiest fan-shaped gold embossed plate. The beef is tender but toothsome, a sweet soy dressing enhancing its flavour, fine shreds of carrot, daikon and cucumber refreshing the palate. It's not as meltingly soft as the beef tataki from the Nippon Club, but the slices are thicker here, which gives greater textural appreciation.


Deluxe sushi and sashimi combination on a boat $58

Our deluxe sushi and sashimi boat arrives next, a huge vessel that threatens to overtake the entire table. The slices of raw tuna, salmon, kingfish and mackerel are all firm and fresh. The tuna and cucumber sushi rolls are inside out uramaki rolls.


Flame grilled unagi nigiri

My favourite item on the boat is the flame grilled unagi nigiri, a plump and soft morsel of sweetened freshwater eel seared with a blowtorch to a delicious caramelised charr.


Grilled scallops Kabuki style $12
Grilled scallops dressed in mornay sauce

I hadn't been so keen on the thought of grilled scallops in mornay sauce but once I take one mouthful, I'm quickly convinced otherwise. The fat juicy scallop is a perfect match for the delicate but creamy mornay sauce, grilled to a golden brown. The sauce isn't overwhelmingly salty or rich. It's so good I practically lick the shell clean.


Deep fried white bait seasoned with seaweed flakes $13

It takes us a while to nibble through the large bowl of deep-fried white bait seasoned with seaweed flakes. The generous sprinkle of seaweed flakes remind me of those deep-fried nori sheet snacks found in Japanese and Korean convenience stores, a crisp shard of seaweed that is both salty and sweet. I find the seaweed flakes overwhelm the white bait a little, although a generous squeeze of lemon does lift and lighten the dish.


Deep-fried soft shell crab $13

Deep-fried soft shell crab arrives in a pale and airy batter. I almost cluck with fondness at the sight of the leaf garnish, an adornment that instantly reminds of so many good meals in Japan.


Premium wagyu marbled beef grilled on a hot rock $32

And then finally our prized wagyu sirloin arrives, the waitress taking extra care with the smooth hot rock set on a bed of salt crystals. Kabuki Shoroku prides itself on its wagyu, its menu proudly disclosing that its wagyu sirloin has a high quality grading marble score ranging from 6+ to 9+.

The marinated beef slices make a satisfying sizzle as they hit the surface of the hot rock. They take only about 7 seconds to cook on each side, a bit of chopstick negotiation resulting in a piping hot mouthful of meltingly tender beef. The beef seems to relax without a care in the world. A bit like me, as I go for my next helping of beef.




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Kabuki Shoroku
Ground Floor, St Martin’s Tower
202 Clarence Street Sydney
Tel: +61 (02) 9267 4552

Free parking available after 6pm in the St Martins Tower building

Opening hours:
Lunch: Monday to Friday, 12.00pm - 2.30pm
Dinner: Monday to Saturday, 6.00pm - 9.30pm

Closes at 9pm on public holidays
Closed on Sundays

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