Bush, Redfern

Kangaroo curry puffs, all day pikelets and Sydney's best cheeseburger? Bush by chef owner Grant Lawn in Sydney's Redfern has established a strong following since it opened just over a year ago. And in today's tough new Covid world, it's still drawing in (socially-distanced) fans.  

Cheeseburger $15 with chips $6

The Bush cheeseburger is legendary and with one bite you'll know why. The bun is soft but not too doughy nor sweet. The blanket of bright yellow cheese oozes seductively. There's a good hit of tang from the thick sliced pickles and a generous splodge of burger sauce. But it's the beef patty that brings it all together, a reassuringly unevenly shaped patty that's charred and caramelised in all the right places. It hits all the right notes of an American cheeseburger executed oh so very well. 

Is this Sydney's best cheeseburger? It's definitely a front runner. Make sure you get chips too. Here they're old-fashioned crinkle cut chips, fried to a golden ridged crunch.

Nan's sausage roll $7

We're thwarted by last night's diners who ate the last of the kangaroo curry puffs (noooo.... shakes fist) but console ourselves with Nan's sausage roll. What the sausage roll lacks in length, it makes up for in girth, a hefty slice served with tomato sauce on the side.

This is a classic sausage roll made with beef mince, soft and juicy in the middle, encased in flaky pastry. 

Dirty vegetables $14

Dirty vegetables will balance all the fried food, right? Crisp iceberg lettuce and crunchy fresh cucumber slices are dressed with vinaigrette and pistachio smithereens, an assembly that tastes much cleaner that its namesake would suggest. 

Courtyard seating

We're seated inside but there's a cosy looking courtyard out the back too. An Australian bush theme extends throughout, from the Aussie fauna plush toys dotting the dining room to the beautifully raw timber tables, tree stump stools and native floral arrangements. 

 

Pikelets with assorted toppings $14

Fairy bread and butter pudding is one of their signature desserts but we skip this in favour of their all day breakfast pikelets served with a choose-your-own adventure assortment of toppings. 

Pouring salted caramel sauce onto pikelets

The salted caramel sauce is particularly good, its salty sweetness tempered by a caramel pushed to a satisfyingly bitter edge.

Pikelets with toppings

Classic honey with butter is great but the wattle seed cream is even better, topped with a rubble of crushed pistachios. 

Native Australian ingredients pop up throughout the entire menu, including wattle seed damper (sold out when we dined) and desserts that that use lemon myrtle and strawberry gum.

Bush

55 George Street, Redfern, Sydney

Tel: 0403 780 067

Open Tuesday to Saturday

Breakfast 7am-3pm

Lunch 12pm-3pm

Dinner 5pm-10pm

Takeaway is available. Call 0403 780 067 

Huxtaburger, Redfern

Burger fans rejoice. Melbourne's Huxtaburger is now officially flipping burger patties in Sydney. They're the second Melbourne burger lord to head north, hot on the heels of 8bit which opened in Darling Square in May.

Huxtaburger's first Sydney location is a clever one, sitting at the base of a recently completed student accommodation tower and only a stone's throw from Redfern train station.


Huxtaburger dining space

While Huxtaburger had an official open date of Saturday September 15, we acted on a hunch they were trading beforehand in soft launch mode. We rocked up and strolled right on in.

The dining space design is inner city grunge mixed with industrial chic. The vibe feels a little forced and over-stylised though, especially when the graffiti-covered walls are overlaid with feel good motivational messages like "Smash a burger. Smash Life" and "Every human is equal". Mmmkay.

Otherwise the menu reads much like its Melbourne counterparts. Burgers cover brekkie, beef and chicken. Vegetarians and vegans get to choose between the kale, zucchini and quinoa patty or the spicy bean and quinoa patty.


Cheesus beef burger $14

Out of the 8 variations of beef burger, we find Cheesus. The double grass-fed beef patty with double cheese and cheesy mayo isn't as hefty as you'd expect, but the melting puddle of cheese is pretty spiritual.


Double grass-fed beef patty cross-section inside the Cheesus beef burger

The beef patties are tender but they do have a somewhat spongy consistency. There isn't a great deal of caramelisation either, but there's a consolatory sweetness from the tomato sauce and pickles.


Britney chicken burger $13.90 

I'm a bigger fan of the Britney chicken burger, a towering assembly of fried chicken (you can also choose to have it grilled) with grilled bacon, aioli, cheese, lettuce, tomato and smashed avocado.


Hello bacon 

The chicken thigh fillet is impressively juicy, coated in golden fried breadcrumbs. And while the bacon could probably have been cooked to a darker crisp, there's a overall sense of harmony to this burger, the fried chicken and grilled bacon balanced out by crisp iceberg lettuce and creamy avocado.


Onion rings $6.50 

You can order chicken tenders, chips, hash browns or tater tots (called hash bites on the menu) as sides. We're all about the onion rings, their sweet translucency sheathed in crunchy batter.


Furphy ale $8.50 ($5 during happy hour 4pm-7pm everyday) 
and Shit The Bed hot sauce

Little self-serve condiment trolleys are situated at the front and rear of the store. From these you can help yourself to tomato sauce, salt and Shit The Bed hot sauce that really does stand up to its heat rating of 12/10. A liberal use of Scorpion chillies means this sauce has a Scoville rating of 35, 000 units. I'd recommend cautious dipping your food into this sauce rather than committing to a dangerous pour over.

And yes, Huxtaburger is licensed too. Choose from six beers, an apple cider or whisky and dry ginger ale. Wine drinks get just one red, one white and one sparkling. Happy hour (4pm-7pm daily) offers $5 Furphy ale, white wine or red wine. They also do milkshakes, soft drinks and Nespresso coffee.


Ice cream burger with chocolate sauce $3.95 

There's only one choice for dessert, the ice cream burger with chocolate or caramel sauce. Ours is missing the Huxtacrunch (crushed feuilletine?) promised on the menu but we're hoping this was just a soft launch glitch.

Keen to try the burgers yourself? Get there for their opening day party on Saturday 15 September for $1 Huxtaburgers from 12pm to 8pm. Expect craaazy queues. 






Huxtaburger
Shop C, 66 Regent Street, Redfern, Sydney
Tel: +61 (02) 8591 1108

Opening hours
Sunday to Thursday 10.30am-9.30pm
Friday and Saturday 10.30am-10.30pm


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Ciccone & Sons Gelateria, Redfern

These hot summer days are made for gelato. Gone are the days when you'd cool down with a Zooper Dooper or a Sunny Boy. Today's kids - both big and small - are more likely to be clamouring for the cold satisfaction of freshly churned gelato. Unless you've been completely off Instagram, Ciccone & Sons must have registered on your radar. After opening up shop in the depths of winter, they've become Sydney's most popular kid on the block as we hit heatwave season.


Whimsical decor inside Ciccone & Sons

The small and unassuming shopfront sits among a neighbourhood of 2nd-hand shops and neighbourhood fruit shops and bakeries on Redfern's Regent Street. Floor-to-ceiling glass folding doors offer a peek inside for passing drivers. The decor is a charming mix of memorabilia, including vintage posters, an old-fashioned cash register, bunting and an intriguing pair of boys lederhosen. Two long benches provide a communal rest stop for gelato customers, but the majority of people seem happy to takeaway with cones and cups in hand.


The handwritten gelato and sorbetto menu changes daily

The menu changes daily, always handwritten on the clipboard outside - and on a giant scroll of brown butchers paper by the register - and always includes at least one sorbetto.


Mark Megahey, co-owner of Ciccone & Sons

Chances are you'll find co-owner, Mark Megahey, inside the shop, a veteran gelato maker who racked up 15 years at Bar Italia in Leichhardt before opening his own business with business partner Sean O’Brien.


Croccantino gelato with toffee and almonds

What sets apart Ciccone & Sons from so many other gelato makers is their use of jersey milk for a creamier texture. They also make all of their flavourings inhouse, avoiding the use of any pre-made bases or pastes. The small batch gelato run - made using two old-fashioned Carpigiani churners - means flavours are often exhausted before the day is out.


Creme brulee gelato

That means the chest freezer of gelato changes daily with occasional wackier flavour combos including pear and riesling; lavender and white chocolate; cucumber and rosemary; and lemon and maple. Seasonal specials so far have included whisky brulee for Fathers Day, pumpkin and burnt butter for Halloween; and burnt butter and gingerbread for Christmas. If you can't decide, they'll happily provide tastings to help you choose - although most of the time, this tends to only complicate, rather than simplify matters!


Mascarpone & strawberry and buttermilk & passionfruit gelato $6.50 for 2 scoops

Pepe Saya products are the secret behind the rich and buttery flavour of the mascarpone and strawberry gelato, as well as the buttermilk and passionfruit gelato. The buttermilk is one of my current favourites, its slightly yoghurty tang providing supreme refreshment on a hot summer's day.


Mascarpone & strawberry gelato

And you can taste the milky richness from the Pepe Say mascarpone too. The strawberry puree folded through it has a clean berry taste that isn't too sweet or too sour.


Coffee and croccantino $6.50 for two scoops

The coffee gelato is an instant flashback for anyone who ordered the coffee gelato at Bar Italia. It's intensely caffeinated, with a gusty bitterness. Add this to an iced coffee and you are set.

The croccantino is ideal for toffee and nut fans, a rubble of hazelnut and almond praline adding textural crunch.


Mascarpone & strawberry gelato $4 for one scoop

Have we talked about price yet? $4 feels like a steal for a single scoop of jersey milk gelato, especially when the single cup is ridiculously piled up high. Two scoops will cost you $6.50. They also offer take home tubs for at-home dining pleasure.


Coffee gelato and salted cashew gelato $6.50 for two scoops

Salted cashew gelato is an addictive combination of salty and sweet, against a buttery background of cashew nuts.


Creme brulee gelato and buttermilk & passionfruit gelato $6.50 for two scoops

And the creme brulee gelato is pretty spectacular, glistening shards of golden toffee interspersed among the dulce de leche base.


Buttermilk & passionfruit gelato and gianduja gelato $6.50 for two scoops

And Nutella fans will dig the gianduja gelato, a smooth mix of chocolate and hazelnut.


Mango sorbet $4 for one scoop cone

For a fruitier or dairy-free hit, the mango sorbet screams a classic Aussie summer.


Watermelon and lime sorbet $4 for one scoop cone

And on one of several visits, I found satisfying refreshment in the watermelon and lime sorbet, spiked with a chilli hit that let the tongue with a confused tingling of both spice and coldness.


Fridge with Pepe Saya buttermilk, mascarpone, creme fraiche and butter and Sungold jersey milk

The fridge doubles as a handy pit-stop for stocking up on Sungold jersey milk or a comprehensive range of Pepe Saya products, especially his butter and proper buttermilk.


Friends who eat gelato together, stay together

And as the mercury climbs higher in the coming weeks, I expect to find myself stopping by with increasing frequency. I couldn't be happier at the thought.






Ciccone & Sons Gelateria
195 Regent Street, Redfern, Sydney

Opening hours:
Wednesday to Saturday 11am-9pm
Sunday 11am-6pm

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Cafe Oratnek, Redfern

Let's talk about katsu, a thick slab of pork fillet, crumbed and deep-fried into one helluva juicy schnitzel. The Japanese love katsu so much, they put it between two slabs of fluffy white bread and call it a katsu sando. Katsu sandos aren't easy to find in Sydney which is probably why they're walking out the door at the newly opened Cafe Oratnek in Redfern, headed up by Bills Darlinghurst ex-head chef, Kenny Takayama.


Cake display counter

Cafe Oratnek only opened on July 20, but on Saturday - only its sixth day of trade - the kitchen was forced to close early after literally running empty on food. Locals have taken to this Japanese fusion cafe like ducks to water.


Quince ripening on the counter for future desserts

The breakfast menu runs all day. A separate lunch menu kicks in at 11.30am. Breakfast is all about things on toast: smashed avocado; honey caramelised figs; wild mushrooms with miso butter; jamon serrano with mashed green peas; or vine tomatoes with cucumber, goats cheese and house made chilli jam. Hipsters can settle in with chia and quinoa porridge pots with almond milk. Everyone else can hang loose with bacon and free range egg rolls and banana loaf with caramel butter.


Cake of the day $4.50

In the display cabinet at the front is a range of cakes, brownies and slices made daily.


Banana loaf served with caramel butter $5.50

The Japanese influences are more evident in the lunch time menu, like the salad with daikon and wild mushroom or the hot dishes of miso bbq boneless beef short ribs, sake steamed clams and a Japanese slow cooked lamb casserole.


Piccolo latte $3.50

Coffee beans are supplied by Mecca. Tea is by Mariage Freres. An alcohol licence means you can settle in with a beer (Asahi, Sapporo or 4 Pines Hefeweizen at $8-$9) or a glass of wine ($8-$10).


Matcha latte $4.90 large

The matcha latte I ordered was very much on the weak side, but staff did mention this was the first one they'd served and took my feedback on with eagerness. Non-caffeinated drinks include housemade lemonade and ginger beers, thickshakes and a mint and cucumber soda detox.


Indoor dining area

The interior of the cafe is completely on-trend with subway tiles, wooden school chairs and an open counter. On a mild winter's day, it's worth sitting in the leafy front courtyard. Outdoor gas heaters will keep you toasty if the temperature dips.


Fire grilled capsicum, feta, shallots, herbs, tomato stew and sourdough $16

The kitchen pumps out an impressive selection of hot meals. The fire grilled capsicum and tomato stew is the perfect bowl of warmth on a mild winter's day. Thick strips of smoky and tender capsicum mingle with soft and squidgy tomato wedges. Its one big umami bomb, lifted by pops of feta and a scattering of fresh herbs. A chargrilled slice of Brickfields sourdough helps you mop up all the sauce.


Pork fillet katsu sandwich and Japanese fried chicken sandwich

There are currently three sandwiches on the menu: pork fillet katsu, smashed egg and Japanese fried chicken, each at a wallet-friendly ten bucks. I could have done without the oversized chopping boards though, impinging on table real estate as well as making my sandwich look smaller.


Japanese fried chicken sandwich with kimchi mayo $10

The Japanese fried chicken has less batter than you'd expect, but there's a welcome zinginess from the marinade. The chicken thigh fillet is plump and juicy, with a light crunch at the edges. It's sandwiched into a soft bun with cabbage kimchi and kimchi mayo.


Pork fillet katsu with cabbage, Japanese BBQ sauce and mustard $10

And their pork fillet katsu sandwiches are so popular they're doing a roaring trade in takeaway lunches. The katsu sando yields a hefty slab of impressively tender crumbed pork fillet, sauced up with Japanese tonkatsu fruity barbecue sauce and horseradish mustard. A generous amount of raw shredded cabbage provides bonus points on the healthiness scale.

The crusts are cut off, just like they do in Japan, leaving you with a thick pillow of fluffy white bread (also from Brickfields) contrasting against the gentle crunch of the pork katsu.


Stepladder pot plants

And what does Oratnek mean? If you haven't already worked it out, it's Kenny Takayama's first name in reverse: Kentaro.






Cafe Oratnek
4 Pitt Street, Redfern, Sydney
Tel: +61 (02) 8065 4625

Opening hours:
Monday to Saturday 7am-4pm
Sunday 8am-4pm


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