Palace Chinese Restaurant, Sydney

It's funny how every family has its own yum cha traditions. We have our own list of must-have dishes that need to be consumed before there can be any thought of mid-air hand signals calling for the bill.

So it's only when I have yum cha with friends that everyone tends to break out a little, various nods around the table bringing a motley of surprise dishes to the soon-to-be-tea-stained-and-sauce-splattered table.


Panfried bean curd sheet rolls

Friendly company also brings me to Palace Chinese Restaurant, a swish and somewhat-hidden dining gem tucked away in the heart of the city. The Palace isn't too hidden though, claiming the Editors' Pick for Favourite Yum Cha in the 2008 SMH Good Food Guide Awards. A huge three-metre banner proudly reminds me of this fact.


Ham soi gok combination pork dumplings

The food? We marvel at the extensive range of dishes on offer. Presentation is emphasised (silver-edged bamboo steamers always add a touch of finesse) and the restaurant is busy without being too chaotic. Trolleys bob their way through between tables, but there's a sense of calmness to the place - not the usual frenzy of teapots and giggling kids underfoot, or plaintive wailing of dishes by the trolley trundlers.


Siu maai pork dumplings


Wu gok taro dumplings


Fish paste in fried bread sticks


Polo buns filled with two kinds of Chinese salami


Har cheung fun prawn rice noodles


Gai lan Chinese broccoli


Fung jao chicken feet with black bean and chilli


Gon jin ngau yuk steamed beef balls


Seafood dumplings with ginger and shallot dipping sauce


Egg custard buns



The damage? Six reasonably hungry people ate for $117 plus a $12 charge for tea.

New dishes are added every week, my friend tells me. It's a dangerous revelation.

Palace Chinese Restaurant
Shop 38, Level 1, Piccadilly Tower
133-145 Castlereagh Street, Sydney
(or enter via Pitt Street, opp the Hilton, and take the escalators)
Tel: +61 (02) 9283 6288

Yum cha available 7 days 11am-5pm
Restaurant open 7 days 11am-10pm

Related GrabYourFork posts:
Yum Cha--Dragon Star, Haymarket
Yum Cha--East Ocean, Haymarket, Aug06, Aug05 and Oct 04
Yum Cha--Hung Cheung, Marrickville
Yum Cha--Regal Restaurant, Sydney
Yum Cha--Zilver, Haymarket, Jan 07 and Feb06

Minh Hai, Sydney

Fried chicken with tomato fried rice $8.50

Famous fried chicken.

I couldn't count the number of times the outdoor signage at Minh Hai teased me. Stuck on a bus in the usual George Street traffic snarl, I'd lean my forehead gently against the window, peering at the strange but alluring fluorescent logo in the window, a frolicking dolphin leaping in front of a yellow setting sun.

And yet I'd always forget about this place, teetering on the very fringe of Chinatown. Forgotten, of course, until the next time I found myself on a bus heading up George Street and it would pull up at the bus-stop just outside the restaurant yet again.


Spicy sea jelly $6.00

But it seems like I'm the only one who struggles to remember its location, the restaurant quickly reaching capacity (predominantly students) on a weekday lunch.

The one-page menu is double-sided, laminated and helpfully illustrated with colour photos of each dish. There are 48 different dishes in all, moving from fried noodles to Hainan chicken, and noodle soups to hotpots.

We order the spicy sea jelly, or jellyfish to start. I've always enjoyed jellyfish, particularly as part of a Chinese wedding banquet cold platter starter. This version falls far short of expectations, a muddle of soggy jellyfish slices doused in a bland fish sauce dressing that leaves a strange and unpleasant metallic aftertaste that lingers on the tongue.


Fried beef with dried noodle $8.50

Fried beef with dried noodle is a little more lively, the strips of beef tender if a tad oily. A bowl of nuoc cham fish sauce dressing adds zing to a summery mix of lettuce, bean sprouts, cold noodles and crushed peanuts.

Even better is my order of fried chicken with tomato fried rice. The chicken maryland has skin that is crisp and burnished gold, the flesh beneath soft and juicy. Its moist and succulent, made even more hearty with its side of tomato-sauce rice and a sunny fried egg.


Jackfruit shake $3.50

We wash our meals down with jackfruit shakes, sweet and refreshing.

Trouble is, next time I'm stuck on a bus heading up George Street, the thought of that fried chicken will still tease me so.



Minh Hai Restaurant
615 George Street, Sydney
Tel: +61 (02) 9281 1875 or +61 (02) 9281 5648

Open 7 days 10am - 10pm
BYO $1 per person per glass

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Chinese New Year Banquet at Makan at Alice's, Thornleigh

Course #1: Yee sang

It's a bit of a hike to Thornleigh, but with the promise of a Chinese New Year banquet at Alice's, I didn't require much convincing.

We dined here last Sunday on the final day of their special 17-day banquet offering. The banquet dinner for six involved six dishes and cost $268; the one for ten involved eight dishes and cost $428.

We went for the latter of course.


Alice explains to the table what to do

Proceedings commenced with the Yee Sang salad, a colourful platter of grated carrot, cucumber, Chinese radish, ginger and curls of green onion. Following instructions from restaurant owner and kuih extraordinaire Alice, we added the dish of raw salmon slices, the bowl of sauce, the bowl of oil and then a party of square crunchy noodle bits.

The red lucky packets (which are usually given to children and containing money) were passed around the table, allowing everyone to help scatter the sesame seeds inside onto the salad.


Everyone helps to pour on the sesame seeds,
bringing good luck for everyone

Tossing the salad involves a merry clatter of chopsticks and shrieks of laughter as everyone sees who can toss the highest, without spilling the majority of it onto the table.


Ready. Set. Toss!


The higher you toss the salad, the greater the luck

The yee sang is delicious, a gorgeous combination of fresh vegetables with the richness of salmon and the crunch of both noodle and sesame seed. It's a favourite dish with everyone.


Course #2: Butter soft shell crab

Butter soft shell crab is a happy jumble of deep-fried crab (a little oily) with a tangle of yellow shreds later identified as deep-fried egg. The egg is rich in flavour, slightly salty and rather addictive. The secret, Alice tells us, is the addition of butter.


Course #3: Basket of Prosperity (Fatt Poot)

The Basket of Prosperity is my favourite dish of the evening. The basket is made from yam, a starchy mash that is shaped into a shallow bowl and then deep-fried. Huddled inside we find a delicious mix of scallops, lotus roots, mushrooms, black moss, sugar snap peas, carrots, corn and whole macadamia nuts. A nest of deep-fried vermicelli noodles is balanced with the undeniable health-giving properties of lettuce.


Course #4: Teowchew Loh Ark (braised duck)

Teowchew Loh Ark is a blackened mass of duck that is lightened visually by the bright green discs of cucumber and happy slices of tomato. The duck is amazingly tender, its skin slightly caramelised, each mouthful faintly scented with five spice, galangal and black pepper.


Course #5: Nien Nien Yau Yee ( Whole Fish)

Nien Nien Yau Yee is the traditional Chinese saying that wishes "you will have surplus every year". The "yee" of surplus sounds like the "yee" of fish and there's plenty of fish leftover despite our best efforts.

The fish is moist and succulent, deep-fried whole and then flayed open and filled with a tangy mix of lemon rind, chilli and a sweet and sour sauce. It's a little sweet for some, but I find this dish growing on me, the sweet and tangy sauce helping to offset the heaviness that comes with deep-fried food.


Course #6: Salt and pepper prawn

I'd been looking forward to salt and pepper prawns, but these are a little disappointing. The prawns have been beheaded but retain their shells, deep-fried until crisp and covered in Szechuan pepper, chilli and green onions. It's not as peppery as I'd hoped and the prawns themselves are a little lacking in flavour.


Course #7: Braised Pork Leg

By course number seven, everyone is starting to struggle. The braised pork leg is another mass of deep indistinguishable brown but one poke of a fork reveals a pink tender succulency that melts in the mouth. Whole shiitake mushroom caps are meaty with the flavour of stock, and to one side we find decadent slices of wobbly yet firm sea cucumber.


Course #8: Lu Yee Mein noodles

Long noodles represent a long life in Chinese culture, and the Lu Yee Mein noodles are exceptionally long, a tricky dish to transfer to our individual bowls. The noodles are thick and springy, doused in a thin gravy and smothered with beef, prawns and slices of mushroom.


Course #9: Dessert - Kuih talam and kuih serimuka

We conclude with Alice's famous kuih: kuih talam reminds us of mah-jong tiles, a thin layer of salty coconut cream contrasting with the dark green layer of mung bean jelly beneath. I prefer the kuih serimuka, a stickier starchier mouthful that layers a pandan coconut custard over coconut sticky rice.

Service, as always, is warm and friendly. And just like the folk song, sometimes it feels like you can get anything you want at Alice's Restaurant.


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Makan at Alice's
Shop 3, 262 Pennant Hills Road, Thornleigh, Sydney
(turn into Bellevue Street and it's on your left)
Tel: +61 (02) 9484 8288

Lunch Tuesday to Sunday 11.30am - 2.30pm
Dinner Thursday to Sunday 6.00pm - 9.00pm

Related GrabYourFork posts:
Makan at Alice's, Thornleigh (CNY Banquet 2009) and (lunch 2007)

Malaysian -- Kopitiam, Ultimo (Dec08), (Apr07) and (Apr06)
Malaysian -- Malay Chinese, Sydney (26 Apr 07) and (3 Apr 07)
Malaysian -- Mamak, Haymarket (Nov07) and (Oct07)
Malaysian -- Mc Lucksa, Haymarket
Malaysian -- Temasek, Parramatta (Jan09) and (May08)
Malaysian -- The Malaya, Sydney
Malaysian -- Tan's Malaysian, Ultimo

Forty One Restaurant, Sydney

EDIT: Forty One Restaurant has now closed

The view from the women's bathroom.

This is the one thing that diners consistently mention when talking about Forty One.

Our trip to the bathroom has as much anticipation as our meal, and with one look at the floor-to-ceiling windows, the flooding of natural light, and the sweeping views over the Sydney CBD, we can understand why people say they're often tempted to sink into a chair and never exit.



But that would mean no chance to savour the food, and I'd been curious to sample a full menu by Dietmar Sawyere after sampling one of his dishes at an Oxfam fundraising dinner in 2006.

The menu offers three different starters, three entrees and a choice of seven mains. Perhaps what is more distracting is the liberal and unnecessary use of italics for various "foreign" words like "jus", "puree", "confit" and "brisket". The pedantic in me wonders why Peccorino qualifies for italics but Reggiano does not. The purist in me wonders why italics are needed at all.

Our complimentary sourdough rolls are warm with a rich chewy crust. Wines arrive shortly after, Geet opting for the 2006 Staete Landt Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand ($13.00), whilst I sup on the 2005 Lucien Albrecht Pinot Gris from Alsace Paris ($13.00). The Staete Landt is amazingly fragrant, with an intense bouquet of passionfruit; my Lucien Albrecht is light and fairly sweet, a refreshing tipple for a sometime drinker.


Pastilla of Chinese roast duck
with a remoulade of celeriac, wild rocket and hand-picked crab meat

The Punter had asked me what a pastilla was. I had pondered that perhaps it was referring to the bastilla, the famous Moroccan dish of pigeon, cinnamon and layers of flaky puff pastry (it tastes much better than it sounds). So the eventual appearance of what is essentially a roast duck spring roll surprises me, but pleases the punter. I remain confused.


Grilled sea scallops with cauliflower puree,
green apple reduction and tapenade

I'd opted for the grilled sea scallops on a bed of cauliflower puree, a pairing often associated with Gordon Ramsay. The scallops were fat, fresh and superbly moist, the caulifower puree smooth and creamy. I found the olive tapenade a little overwhelming against the delicacy of the scallops, but then I tend to prefer my seafood accompaniments simple and understated.


Boneless rack of Castricum lamb
with aubergine confit and shallot jus

Geet and The Punter both order the boneless rack of Castricum lamb. It's soft and delicate although Geet is a little apprehensive about the pinkness of it all, particularly as she'd requested medium when asked on her cooking preference.

The accompanying mashed potato, served in a gorgeous copper pot, is wonderfully rich and buttery. I end up having more than a spoonful without too much encouragement.


Creamy mashed potato (served with the lamb)


Forty One steak tartare, roast shallots and mushrooms
with pommes pont neuf

I couldn't go past the Forty One steak tartare which arrives as a multi-plated banquet for one.


Steak tartare

The shavings of beef are meltingly tender, dressed in a marinade of Worcestershire, pepper and freshly chopped herbs. A single quail egg yolk appears lost on a rink of red. Considering the richness of the meat, it's an enormous portion, especially as it's surrounded by delicious roasted shallots and morsels of earthy field mushrooms.


Pommes pont neuf (thick cut fries)

The pommes pont neuf (thick cut fries) are very disappointing - only a few are crisp, the majority are limp and soggy with grease. Two thick slices of sourdough are deliciously crisp, although being a tartare novice, it's not until the next day that I realise that steak tartare is usually spread onto the bread before consumption.


Green salad
(with steak tartare)

The final accompanying green salad has a lovely tangy dressing, and it's the only thing I finish completely. The pot of chips remain largely untouched, as do the stomach-filling slices of sourdough toast.


White chocolate and Christmas pudding parfait
with kirsch macerated cherries

That's because one must save room for dessert.

Geet is rapturous about the white chocolate and Christmas pudding parfait [okay, yes, I'm posting about this meal a little late - we ate here in late December 2007 (!!)]. The pyrmaid of ice cream and Christmas pudding is adorned with gold leaf and surrounded by a huddle of kirsch macerated cherries.


Pear sorbet and pear compote
with poire William eau de vie

The Punter has the pear sorbet and pear compote, an elegant offering that is ceremoniously drenched with a very alcoholic pear liquer at the table.


Lemon tart, basil mascarpone sorbet
and aubergine crisps

I have the lemon tart, a sweet wedge that could have been tarter, paired with a subtle basil mascarpone sorbet and an amazing shard of dehydrated eggplant, reminding me in texture of deep-fried apple chip but with a distinct taste of eggplant.


Petit fours
Clockwise from L: chocolate truffle, passionfruit gelee, pecan pie,
ginger snap and caramel fudge

Petit fours follow along with cups of coffee and pots of Earl Grey tea. We're reluctant to abandon our city views but every girl must eventually leave the ladies bathroom.





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Forty One Restaurant

EDIT: Forty One Restaurant has now closed
The Chifley Tower
2 Chifley Square, Sydney
(corner of Hunter and Phillip Street)
Tel: +61 (02) 9221 2500

Lunch: Tuesday to Friday 12.00pm-2.30pm
Dinner: Monday to Saturday 6.00pm-10.00pm

Prices as at Feb 2008
Lunch two courses including coffee, tea and friandises $65
Lunch three courses including coffee, tea and friandises $80
Lunch four courses including coffee, tea and friandises $95

Dinner four courses including coffee, tea and friandises $130
Dinner five courses including coffee, tea and friandises $140
Dinner six courses including coffee, tea and friandises $150

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Other posh eats
Becasse, Sydney
Summit Restaurant
Tetsuya's, Sydney

Ichi Ban Boshi Town Hall, Sydney

It's the little things that always catch my eye, like the quirky spoons at Ichi Ban Boshi. We join the daily lunchtime throng of city folk, congregating impatiently to pay our respects to large steaming bowls of ramen. On my first visit to Ichi Ban Boshi I had been obsessed with the collagen-rich only-15-bowls-made-per-day tonkotsu ramen. This time I can't stop admiring the cleverly designed soup spoon, a specific cut-out enabling it to rest on the bowl edge, instead of sliding down and drowning in one's soup.


Negi Ramen $9.90 with extra leeks $1.00
Miso ramen with roast pork, leeks and hot chilli sauce

The G-man opts for the negi ramen with extra leeks, a rich miso soup boosted by a cheery boiled egg and a haystack of finely shredded baby leeks.


Chashu ramen $11.50
Ramen topped with Japanese-style roast pork

Mia sticks with perennial favourite chashu ramen, five luscious discs of fat-ribboned pork adorned with scallions, a blob of chilli and a clear soy soup containing chewy tendrils of ramen.


Aburi chashu ramen $11.50
Ramen topped with thick flame-grilled roast pork

I have my eye on the aburi chashu ramen. Three strips of decadent pork belly are meltingly soft, a blow torch searing the surface to a smoky just-charred allure. This is a dish for those not afraid of a little fat, its richness counterbalanced by refreshing morsels of pickled bamboo shoots, a muddle of wilted vegetables, seaweed and finely chopped scallion.



I convince Cho Cho San to choose the aburi chashu ramen on another visit. She pokes at the meat cautiously, lifts a piece to her mouth, chews thoughtfully and then smiles broadly.

It is very rich though, and she's feeling a little queasy by the end.


Cheese Ramen $11.50
Flame-melted cheese mixed with roast pork
on a bowl of shoyu ramen

I, on the other hand, must order the flame-melted cheese and roast pork shoyu ramen. Cheese, meat and noodles? It demands to be ordered.

The cheese is a mild parmesan cheese powder, melted until stringy in parts, swaddling a huddle of roast pork and onions on a seaweed raft. It's a little salty but not as rich and gooey as I'd expected.

It all gets eaten though, and as we push back our chairs I'm already thinking about what to order on my next ramen visit.





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Ichi Ban Boshi (menu)
Town Hall branch, Sydney
Level 2, The Galeries Victoria, 500 George Street, Sydney
Tel: 02 9262 7677
Open Monday to Sunday 11am - 9pm

Bondi Junction branch, Sydney
360 Oxford Street, Bondi Junction
Tel: 02 9369 3980
Monday to Friday 11am-3.30pm, then 5pm-9pm
Saturday to Sunday11am-9.30pm

Southport branch, Gold Coast Queensland
Shop 1 Cecil Hotel Complex, Scarborough Street, South Queensland
Tel: 07 5528 2112
Open Wednesday to Monday 11am-9pm (closed Tuesdays)

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Japanese ramen -- Ryo's Noodles, Crows Nest (Mar08), (Aug07) and (Jul07)
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